15
Feb
10

2009 -Venezuela -Panama

2009:

We flew from LAX to Fort Lauderdale to spend a couple of days with friends, Linda and Neal.

On the 2nd February we flew from Miami to Caracas, Venezuela.

Miami

Miami

Flying over Miami Coast

Flying Over The Islands

Due to land in Caracas

What a culture shock, after spending 2 months in the States and along the Pacific coast, we found all the countries coastal areas to be clean, the people very friendly and helpful.  Venezuela might be oil wealthy, but the coastal areas here appear to be the poorest and dirtiest.

We had left our boat in the water on a finger-dock, and after unpacking we checked to see if everything was o.k. with the boat and found some scratches on our newly painted hull.  They had some very high tides and someone had taken one of our fenders which we found on a dock further down.

It was back to work and finishing the top deck, removing all the teak and laying the fiberglass panels.  Dave finished fitting the panels by the end of April and sanded and sanded the deck and then painted the deck with a white undercoat.  The plan was then to start making a mold for the non-slip sections, but with all this work in the baking hot sun we agreed to put that on hold for a while and decided to leave Venezuela for Panama.

We had a few farewells, and Noeline brought us a huge bag of her delicious oranges and 2 legs of lamb, sure going to miss them and the farm.

Noeline & Tony

Staff  at TMO Marina

Mariangel

We left the marina on the 7th May 2009.  Suzy & David came to see us leave in their dinghy, and Francina.  We sailed  to Tortuga and anchored off Cayo Herradura.  For the first time in many years of going to Tortuga we were the only sail boat in the anchorage, usually there are about 14 yachts anchored in Herradura.

Cayo Herradura

Cayo Elbert- Los Roques

On the 11th May,  we sailed to Los Roques under main with 2 reefs and genoa, the wind was blowing 15-20 knots doing 5-6 knots overnight to Los Roques,  and anchored off Playa Edmund.

On the  14th May we sailed to Los Aves, 30 miles, 2 other yachts at anchor.  This anchorage was very protected by the mangroves and  anchored in 5.5 mtrs.  We caught a small barracuda on the way. The following day we went to the beach and walked to the north side where we collected many allekrik and got rather wet from the seas pounding on the rocks, but we enjoyed that.

We went by dinghy over to the other anchorage and pulled the dinghy into a gap in the mangrove, and walked along a path to an area where  Yachties had made a nice stone marker area with their boat names painted on, like in the Azores.

On the 17th  we decided to dinghy over to the outlying islands, about 5 miles, and went ashore where we found a lovely huge lagoon.  We then went to the small island and walked round the island.  There were hundreds of birds with many baby chicks.

Lagoon!

Many birds on small Island!!

Mother with Chick!!!

 

On the 18th May, we sailed to Bonaire, 57 Miles, and  picked up a mooring off the town. We went ashore to check in and found the dinghy dock at  Karels bar and restaurant all broken from the storm last October, so went to Henks marina and left the dinghy there.  We walked to Customs which was closed so we walked to the Police station to check-in.  Unfortunately they now have an Immigration 0fficer working there, so had to wait due to a power failure, took about 1 hour and they told us we could stay for 24 hours and then leave as we did not have a Visa.

Downtown Bonaire

          Anchorage in Bonaire

At about 7pm we went ashore again and looked for a restaurant with a generator as the power was still off.   We found a restaurant, ¨Mona Lisa¨, on the back street which was very busy and had dinner there.

Karels Bar and Downtown  Bonaire church

Downtown Shopping centre and waterfront restaurant

Dave enjoying the lunch!!!

 Following day we new we would have a very busy day, so up early and I swam off the boat and then we went ashore.  We walked to the laundry, to be ready at 5pm then to internet, and then to Budget Marine to buy a globe for the navigation lights which hadn’t worked since leaving Tortuga.  We also bought stuffing and a few other things and got the weather report for the Columbian coast which  predicted 20 knots till Cartegena.  We walked back to the centre and had lunch, Beef wrap and chips.  We went back to the boat and Dave first checked the wiring and found it broken, so I did not have to winch him up the mast, thank goodness, lights now work.  We went back ashore to buy groceries and returned to the boat and stowed everything.  Dave took me ashore again to get the laundry, while he went to the marina to pay for the mooring and buy some fuel and water.   It was already 6pm and we had to leave by 7pm so we put the dinghy back on board, very tired and decided to sleep overnight and leave very early in the morning.

We sailed  along the Curacao coast and the sea was a mess and sailed past Aruba on the inside during the night,  and during the following morning off   Los Monjes Rocks, the Venezuela coast guard called us and invited us to visit with them and to tie up to the dock!!!, but Dave declined.

Los Monjes Rocks -Venezuela Coastguard

Cabo de Vella – Columbia

Cabo de Vella anchorage

 During the night the wind dropped and the seas smaller so Dave put up the spinnaker pole to stop the Genoa flapping.  The 22nd May we still had light wind and anchored off Cabo de Vella, 240 miles.  The following morning we left the anchorage and motor sailed all day and night and on the 24th  still had to motor sail most of the day and night , we were worried that we may run out of fuel.  On the 25th   we  motor sailed past the 5 Bays, very beautiful high mountains and flat calm water, had  some wind during the evening, so sail and gave the motor a little rest.  On the 27th same conditions only did  3-4 knots.

A very tired passenger!!!!

On Thursday 28th, still motor sailing slowly and arrived in Porto Bello at 3pm., 480 miles, and anchored off  the hill.

From Anchorage

We went ashore and walked to the supermarket and bought diesel, only just made it to Porto Bello.  We stayed a few days, enjoyed swimming in the warm water and the peaceful anchorage..

On the 31st May, we motored to Colon and went to Shelter Bay marina.

Shelter Bay Marina

Total Distance Venezuela to Panama was 1009 miles.

 We have now sailed 35,000 miles on Dignity and  7,000 miles doing deliveries.

I unpacked my bicycle and cycled to the Fort San Lorenzo and Chagres river mouth.

The Chagres River

          Chagres River entrance   –  and Diablo Beach

Tortuga Beach

We went to Panama city a few times to buy things for the boat etc. and stayed overnight at the Milan Hotel.

The Cathedral in Panama City

Inside the  Cathedral

Panama Cathedral

The Milan Hotel   –  Room

We went to the Veneto Hotel & Casino     –  the drive back to the marina

Dave & I drove to the Gatun Lake

                We drove to Escobal town  –  views to Gatun Lake, then along Costa Abajo

The road ends at Miguel de la Borda,  one has to have a boat to continue up the coast or drive via Panama City to go to Bocas del Toro

Cattle farm lands  etc  –

Return view to Chagres river bridge-sleuce gates.

I went with Jennifer, Nellie and Judy to Panama City to visit the Old Town.

Old City –  Panama Viejo  –

Jennifer & Judy    –  Souvenir shops

We first had a coffee and then walked around the place.

  They were still busy renovating the old buildings and it was a pleasure to walk round and admire the buildings which were renovated, also many tourist shops etc.

We walked to Plaza de Francia   –  views to old city

Views to Panama City

Calle Oeste  Artisans Market

Ministerio de Gobierno y Justicia   and  Palacio Bolivar

Plaza de la Independencia   &  Government Offices

Presidents House      and  Independence Square

Old  Town  Cathedral

We then got a taxi to Flamenco Yacht club and went to Alfredo’s for a delicious lunch.  We walked round the area, a huge complex, hotels and restaurants etc.

Enjoyed a good lunch and the day in Panama City!!

Flamenco Marina on the Amador  Causeway

We hired another taxi back to the Allbrook Mall,  a big, clean shopping mall and spent about an hour there then got the bus back to Colon.

     The first week in December we flew to Fort Lauderdale.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Walked to the Riverside Shopping centre,  the Riverside Park and Las Olas Blvd.

Waterfront Pub and Restaurant and went to the Fort Lauderdale Art  Museum

Walked down Las Olas Boulevard and visit  Stranahan House Museum

 Stroll along Fort Lauderdale Beach  –  Avalon Inn where we stayed

View from Avalon Inn  and Pool area

17th  Bridge Causeway      and the Intercoastal Waterway

Flight back to Panama

Balboa Panama  and Allbrook Mall  –  Panama City

Panama Canal – Balboa Moorings and the Americas Highway

              Balboa Yacht Club  –  Moorings

           Amador Causeway  –  Panama City

Flamenco Marina   –  Amador Causeway

On the 27th December we sailed to Porto Bello for a week

The Port Bello Fort at the top of hill  –  Views to the Bay

                         Views across the bay|

Views

We walked about 6km along the road that goes to Colon, many restaurants, dive shops and hotels along the way

We stopped for coffee at the Coco Plum restaurant

Restaurant Gardens

Lovely Flowers

The restaurant has a lovely garden

Closed restaurant on the way back to Porto Bello

View from Fort on town side of the bay – toward anchorage

  Full moon  at  anchor!!

 Back to the Shelter Bay Marina:

Flora and Fauna seen in the San Lorenzo Park

 

Flowers growing in the jungle

  Birds seen in jungle

Toucan

The Three Toed Sloth

SLOTH

  There are many Howler Monkeys

Howler Monkeys

Howler Monkey

 

 

  Cappuccino Monkey  -(White Face Monkey)

The Coatimundi –  Raccoon family  –

I have seen many coatimundi whilst cycling and they seem to be slightly deaf and blind as I have been quite close to them before they notice me, and seem to have a shocked look on their face, do a double look and then rush off into the bush

Ant-Eater

During the dry season there isn´t much fruit or food for them, so they will eat anything given to them, the locals sometime leave scraps for them

Coatimundi

Coatimundi

My Pet Coati

  

// //

14
Jan
10

2007-08 -Curacao – Venezuela.

 On the 6th Jan.  we left Spaansewater anchorage and after a  couple of hours the wind increased again and we sailed and tacked twice and then headed for the Venezuelan coast and motor sailed for the following 2 nights  to Tortuga and  anchored off Little Tortuga.

Venezuela Coast

The following days we  had perfect weather and on the 13th  we motored to Cayo Herradura.  Went ashore and walked and swam  and gave the fisherman cooldrinks etc. in exchange for 3 crayfish.

   On the 17th we left Tortuga  for Little Tortuga,  spent the day there and  sailed overnight to Puerto La Cruz.

TMO Marina

Marinas in Puerto La Cruz

Aerial View of waterway and marinas in Puerto La Cruz

Aqua Vi Marina

Bahia Redonda marina

El Morro marinas and hotels

Waterway – Marina and Golf course

Waterway -Marinas & Shopping Centre

Dinghy along waterway to Plaza Major Shopping Centre

Plaza Major Shopping Mall

I was not doing another book, so had time to go shopping with Suzie on ‘Ariel’ and then Heather arrived on ‘Argonauta 1’, after completing their round the world trip here in Venezuela,  and we went out a few times.  Dave helped Nick and Danielle on ‘Sea Quest’ which he later re-named ‘Colibri’.   On the 15th April, Dave had to take the owner of the marina and his family on the Beneteau  which we had delivered here,  to Los Roques for 2 weeks.

On the 7th April, Janine, Nick’s sister, Danielle and myself took a bus to Cumana, had lunch at the Marina and walked round till 3pm. then had a 3 hour bus ride to Curipe.  A lovely drive along the coast of Gulf de Carriacou and then inland, mountains, clean a pretty countryside to the town of Curipe.  The bus driver took us to the hotel where we stayed overnight.

                   The town was  clean compared to Puerto La Cruz and the people very friendly.  High mountains surround the town.

The following morning we walked downtown to

a Panadaria for breakfast, then got a taxi to the Guaracha Caves where we joined a group of about 13 people with a guide, who took us through the caves which was a 3 hour tour.

Entrance to Caves

There were many birds in the cave, a very interesting tour of the cave. (Danielle & Janine)

       We walked round the garden and got a taxi to town, where we had delicious  strawberries and cream.

Main Street-Curipe – Guaracho Bird

Janine & Daniella

On the  30th April, we left the marina  for Tortuga, clear and no wind so motor sailed, 10 miles from Tortuga we had wind and sailed to Cayo Herradura.     Went ashore and  collected many  ‘Alekrik’ shell fish for supper,  done in loads of garlic and butter, delicious.   Swam ashore and back to the boat everyday.  We went over to Little Tortuga for the weekend with Argonauta 1.

We returned to Cayo Herradura for another few perfect days.  There was some unusual sea life floating in the water.   We sailed back to the marina in Puerto La Cruz on the 15th May.

I went with Suzi & David on the ferry to Margarita and stayed overnight.

Hotel Colibri -Margarita Island

Santiago Av. Margarita

We went to do some shopping etc. and I took a taxi over to the North side of the Island.

Playa Puerto Cruz

Puerto Cruz

We decided to do a re-fit on our boat, so on the 1st August we went to  Tortuga again for a couple of weeks before starting the work on our boat.  Hurricane season being the best time of the year at these islands.  So we had perfect weather, good for snorkeling, swimming and just relaxing and enjoying the peaceful, beautiful anchorage.

On the 5th September we hauled the boat and took the boom and mast off, peeled the bottom due to osmosis, and then sanded the topsides.

TMO boatyard

Bottom to dry – Spray topsides

Sanded boom and mast and put anti-corrosion on.

Spray painted the boom and mast – Spray painters – Ephraim & Jose

Spray paint hull and stripes

Paint job done and bottom painted,  put mast back on and went back in the water on 12th December.

We then started on the deck, removed all the teak on the lower deck, and Dave made fibreglass panels which he then placed on the deck using epoxy.  We removed and cleaned all the deck fittings and re-fitted everything.

We had a few barbeques at TMO with Lorraine and Roland.

On Christmas Day we went to El Saco beach by dinghy and spent a lovely, relaxing day on the beach.

View to Puerto La Cruz and downtown.

Downtown Puerto La Cruz

Downtown Fruit Vendor               

 After the holidays we continued working on the deck.  During January 2008, Nick off ‘Colibri’  contacted us from the States where he has a Veterinary practice and asked us if we would like to deliver his boat which was in Curacao to California.  We decided we would do the delivery so continued working on the deck and finished fitting the glass panels and painted the lower deck in March and just wanted to get away from boats for a short while.

  We went by bus to Caracas and then to Colonia Tovar, a German Village in the mountains and stayed at the Frankfurt Hotel.

The Frankfurt Hotel- Colonia Tovar

Tourist shops and restaurants.

We enjoyed walking in the surrounding hills and the Village area.

Village Shops & Restaurants

Colonia Tovar

After enjoying our stay in Colonia Tovar we returned to Caracas and Puerto La Cruz.

                        Back a  TMO Marina – Restaurant and Staff.

We hauled the boat again, stowed things and just prepared the boat for an absense of at least 3 months.

(The trip from Curacao to California is in the yacht delivery section).

 

 On 29th Aug.  we left  for Tortuga Island and had a perfect sail to Playa Caldera.  Went ashore and walked over to the lagoon, posada and landing strip for small planes.

Tortuga Main Island-Caldera Anchorage

Caldera Lagoon

Landing strip!!!

Main beach and Anchorage

We spent a few days in this anchorage and then went down to Cayo  Herradura.    Spent 10 days here and then went to Little Tortuga for a couple of days, more fish in this area so

Dave did a lot of spearfishing,  and then returned to Cayo Herradura.

Tortuga:

Fisherman- Conche     –    Dolphin Fish

Sunset

25
Dec
09

2005-06 Venezuela-Curacao

We went to Little Tortuga again with Roland and Lorraine and anchored off the Eastern Island in front of a reef. Dave went to Spearfish and he caught a huge Crayfish.

By 7pm it was blowing strong from the South East and this was not a nice anchorage to be in due to a  fetch and reefs.  At midnight the wind was blowing about 25 knots     and there was a big  fetch which ripped the anchor chain out of the windlass twice, so we decided to leave and go back to Playa Herradura.  Lorraine and Roland watched us lift anchor, it was wild and scary.  We motored out past the reefs, and saw the powerboat lights at the other anchorage in Herradura.  After watching our wild time Lorraine decided to stay there the night, and keep anchor watch.  We eventually got back to Playa Herradura at 2 a.m.   Following day, the wind was still blowing strong.   We stayed another few days then sailed back to Playa Faro and overnight there, and returned to the marina the following morning.

Easter Weekend:  23.03 – 28.03.   We sailed to Isla Caracas for 2 days then went to El Oculto for 4 days.

  We walked up into the hills and just enjoyed the week at this anchorage and returned to the marina on the 28th.

  

There were a few parties at the marina and barbeques.

Ken & Audrey, Nick, Roland

Sophie’s 50th

Sophie and Jean Mark,  Iris and Pilar, Twins who worked at the Marina.

Local dancers for the Semana Santa Fiesta- at the Marina Restaurant.

Party-Party

All  trying on the Wig!!!

And the marina dog – Merle -CMO   with wig!!!

On the 15th,  we left the marina and  motored to El Oculto, 18 miles.  and Pisces 111 arrived 2 hours later.

Following day, we went across the bay in the dinghy and walked up the hill.

 

      On Monday 19th,   we motor sailed to Gulfo Carriacou, and then to Laguna Grande with Pisces 111.   25 miles to the  Lagoon.

Entrance to Lagoon

Amazing Colours

We anchored near a small island and the colours of the surrounding hills were beautiful.

 Following morning  Roland and Lorraine came over and I went ashore with them, and we walked up the hill then walked along the river bed.

On 21st December we motored to Medregal Village in the Gulfo.

Early Morning – Laguna Grande

We went ashore to check out the premises, a new boat yard, the hotel, swimming pool area, and restaurant and bar.  Had a few beers and went back to boat.

Medregal Village

The New Boatyard area

We drove for 2 hours to the town of  Carriacou, to the market for fresh fruit and veg.  We all went ashore in the evening and had dinner at the restaurant.

Met some local people on the beach and were invited to their home.

On the 23rd December, we left Medregal Village and motor sailed all day and night to Blanquilla Island.

We met Georgina and Boo on ‘Morning Star’.

Georgina and I went for a walk to Playa Americano, beautiful white beaches and 2 caves.

We walked to the abandoned house and swam.   Decided to walk back on a different path and along the beach.

Went to Georgina and Boo for Christmas supper, and they left 2 days later for Virgen Islands, St Croix.

 On the 28th,  we motor sailed to Los Testigos and anchored.

Los Testigos

Margarita Island

On Dec. 30th, we left Los Testigos for Grenada, there was a very strong current and  we motor sailed about 50 miles and went nowhere so we turned back and sailed downwind overnight to Margarita island.

Porlamar-Margarita Island

We got a taxi to Rattan in Pampatar,  the town was very busy, many tourists.   Lovely fireworks for the new year’s eve.         We stayed till the 5th January, then left with Pisces 111 for Trinidad.  We motor sailed for about 4 miles when the engine stopped and Dave found the Fuel Filter glass had shattered, so we had to return to Porlamar and sailed into the anchorage.  As our dinghy was on deck we called ‘Kamy Too’ and Lorne came and fetched Dave and they went to Vamasca  chandlery to buy a new filter and Lorne brought Dave back to the boat.  Dave fitted the new filter and the engine was good, so we just relaxed  the rest of the day and left the following morning with Pisces 111.   We headed for the Venezuelan mainland, not much wind overnight,  and arrived off San Francisco Bay in the morning, 1 mile off shore, then to Chagaramus to the Customs dock,  checked in and  had to pay overtime as it was a  Saturday.  We then went to Crews Inn Marina,  and Pisces 111 went to anchor in Scotland Bay.

Chaguaramas – Trinidad

Crews Inn Marina

Went to Budget Marine, Peake Marine and to customs to collect a parcel.

I got a bus to  Independence square, Porto Spain, some shopping along  Frederick street, then a taxi to the Botanic Gardens, and  to the Zoo .

I then walked round Queens Park Savannah to the ‘Magnificent Seven’, a group of ostentatious residences, built in the early 1900’s.

Lorraine and Roland came over and we went to the Crews Inn restaurant and met Shaym, a local businessman whom we met on our first visit to Trinidid, and ended the evening on Picses 111.

On Saturday 14th January we left for Los Testigos, then overnight to Tortuga .   Dave caught 2 mackeral on the way.

Cayo Herradura- Tortuga

Tortuga

We stayed another 2 weeks and on the 28th January, we sailed to Playa Farro for 2 days then   returned to the Marina. Johan and Kenwyn were also there.

El Saco Beach

Kenwyn & Di

Kenwyn, Di and myself  went to Bahia Redonda and got the Pinero to El Saco Beach for the day.    Clear lovely day, we snorkeled to the next beach and back, went for walks, lunch and enjoyed the day.

      El Saco

On February 17th, Di, Kenwyn and myself took a bus to town and then another bus to Playa Colorada.

We then went by  pinero over to Isla Arapo, where we spent 3 hours, swam walked around, saw a Toucan in the tree.

Toucan

Abandoned Hotel-Arapos Isl

Returned to Playa Colorada, had a beer and then got a bus back to PLC.

Playa Colorado

Kenwyn & Di

Kenwyn was getting their boat ready to leave for Panama, so we had a lunch on board.

Farewell Party -Di & Les

Also Wendy & Lorne Farewell!!

Michelle & Roy

Wendy & Lorne – ¨Kamytoo¨

Di & Les leaving for Panama and New Zealand.

On the 8th April, we had a lovely sail to Tortuga and anchored in Playa Herradura.   By the 4th day the anchorage was packed with power boats so we motored to little Tortuga.

Spent our days snorkeling and Dave spearfished, with the result we had many fish barbeques and just enjoyed the perfect weather.

 

 

Returned to the marina on the 18th.  I decided to do another book, the 5th edition, which was completed in August.

The 5th & Final Directory

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the 4th October we decided to go to the ABC islands, so we first went to El Oculto our favourite anchorage just to overnight.  Left the following morning for Cumana marina to take on fuel and decided to stay for 1 night in the marina.

We motor sailed to Cubagua,  overnight, then  to Tortuga Island, to the main anchorage of Caldera for a few days then sailed to Cayo Herradura and stayed 10 days.

Caldera – Tortuga

On 23rd,  we set sail for Los Roques and anchored in Cayo Elbert for 3 days then sailed 30 miles to Los Aves,  Buenovento islands.   Dinghy down waterway to see the baby terns.

Dave went trawling and caught 3 fish, and a huge Pompano.

On 30th,  we sailed 20 miles to Sotovento Los Aves, overnight and then sailed to the Bonaire  moorings.  Once again enjoyed our weeks stay in Bonaire, walking round the clean town, going to a couple of restaurants and swimming off the boat in the crystal clear water.

Bonaire

Bonaire Beach road

We went to Klein Bonaire by dinghy, round the island and  snorkeled  in a few places.  On the 6th Nov. sailed to Curacao 35 miles, continued past Spanish Water anchorage to Piscadera bay, which was very protected and lovely, but after being there a couple of weeks we realised why people don’t anchor there for long, depending on the wind direction, the oil refinery spews out yellow sulphor and pollution, and the smell is awfull.   There was a small boatyard, and the bay was surrounded by bush and hills.

Entrance to Piscadera Bay

Piscadera anchorage

We went over to Spanish Water to visit Kenwyn & (Johan was in S.A) on Saraband and we were all invited to  Savannah Blue, Rolf and Brigitte for lunch.

We went to Willemstad many times and just walked round the town, tourist shops and visited a few museums and also went to the Casinos a few times.

       I went to the zoo.

Toucan

Downtown Curacao

We left Piscadera Bay and motored to Spanish Water where it seems to blow 25-30knots everyday and a crowded anchorage,  and anchored near the fishing marina.  We went ashore and walked up the hill, where we had good views from the top overlooking Spanish Water bay area.

View Across Spanish Water Anchorage

We also went to the Royal Sea Aquarium Resort.

Resort

//

21
Dec
09

2003-04 Spain – Venezuela

  The first week of January was very windy and cold, we had force 10 winds with rain during the night, resulting in plenty of snow on the mountains. These conditions continued throughout the month. We went with Eric to the town of Almeria, about 30 miles, to a very nice shopping centre, and returned  via Roquetas town where we stopped for Tapas at a small pub.    We spoke to Eric about hiring a car to go to the Sierra Nevada mountains to see the snow.

 On the 23rd January,  we packed thick jerseys and jackets and boots etc., and drove in a Ford Escort diesel.  We drove through El Ejido town and  Adra to get to the highway. Turned off at Motril to go to Granada,   to the Alhambra Palace where we walked round the gardens and the old buildings.

 Alhambra Palace – View to Granada

We spent 2 hours walking round the property, then drove to the mountains to the ski resort and went to the Ziryab Hotel for the night, bed and breakfast.

Hotel Ziryab

We walked round the resort, very cold and slippery under foot. We climbed up the stairs to a higher level, where we found more shops and went to the information centre.  At night this was like a winter wonderland.

Ski Resort

Sierra Nevada Ski Resort

This was our first time at seeing so much snow and being in a ski-resort, it was awesome.

The following morning after breakfast we once again walked round the resort and went up to the higher levels where we had wonderful views over the resort.

Ski Resort

This was an unforgettable experience!

We left at 11am and drove back to Granada, and then took  a different route through the mountains.

Old Olive Tree

We drove through many villages,  Alpujarca, Capeceira, and Trevelez, where we stopped for a  late lunch.

Trevelez Village

Then continued higher up, deep gorges, to Ugijar, Berja and Adra, El Ejido, and back to the marina.  Very tired of driving on the narrow winding roads, but had a wonderful, unforgettable 2 days.    We spent  75 days in Almerimar Marina, Spain,  from 29-11-02 – 11-02-2003.

On 12th February, we left the marina and anchored in Motril Harbour and the following morning, had East wind Force 3-4 and a lovely sail to Gibraltar, 96 miles,  and went to Queensway Quay Marina. 

 

Captains Chapel

Spent most days walking round the town, going to the Trafalgar Pub to watch the cricket and rugby, and had  lovely roast buffet lunches.   This time we spent 40 days on Gibraltar, of which 12 days we had good weather, the rest was overcast, windy and raining and enjoyed our stay once again.

Dave had the emergency tiller repaired with thick stainless steel tubing and repaired the auto-pilot.  We walked up the Mediterranean Steps, many wild flowers and enjoyed the hike.

Views from the Mediterranean Steps – Hike

We were waiting for weather, but had a Gale warning again, East wind 50 knots and many dock lines broke on boats as the surge was terrible.  On the 26th March we left the marina and  flew down the Straits to Tarifa.   The Auto-pilot was still not working and the following day the wind went into the S-west, just our luck, and started to rain and the wind increased, we went nowhere and on the 29th we decided to return to Gibraltar.  Downwind sailing with 3 reefs in the main and half Genoa, and wonderful fast sailing, we arrived in the marina in time to watch a rugby match.   On Thursday 3rd, East wind blowing, drop lines and go out, but still S.West wind so we returned once again to the marina.  Marina staff had a good chuckle, and said it happens to many people as the wind circles the rock, so one can’t tell the true direction of the wind.

On the 4th April, East wind blowing 10-15 knots and increasing, we left the Marina again.  The winds increased to 40knots and we had 3 reefs in the main and rough seas off Tarifas.  The Auto-Pilot wasn’t working and Dave had to steer all day and most of the night, directly down wind. During the early hours of the morning in big seas we were pooped, surfing down the big swells doing 10-12knots.

Dave re-fitted the old small auto-pilot which worked for 1 hour then also broke.  Dave took it off and  made pins, then re-fitted it and it worked.  During the following days we had light winds to zero wind.  We tried to start the engine and found the fuel pump wasn’t pumping so had a jerry-can of fuel next to the engine and fed fuel down into engine.

THE CANARY ISLANDS:

There are 7 islands, namely: Lanzarote in the North, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro, and we visited 3 islands.

LANZAROTE:

Distance from North to South is 60Km and from East to West is 20Km.  It is 100Km off the coast of Morocco. Main town  Arrecife  is the Capital.

Puerto Calera Marina-Lanzarotte

On the 12th April, we motored  along the coast of Lanzarotte and went to the Puerto Calero marina at 27Eu a day.  Many shops and restaurants and a small supermarket in the marina area.  Sail from Gibraltar to Lanzarote, Puerto Calero Marina, 696 miles.

We walked up the hill which overlooked the marina.  All homes are white with either blue or black stripes, and all buildings are no higher than 3 levels.  Land is very baron, volcanic, but where villages or homes are, we saw many lovely plants, palm trees etc.  We swam off the boat in the very clean marina.   Dave tried to buy a switch for the autopilot, also a fuel pump, then the electric water pump started to leek, needed a new kit or a new pump and  Dave ordered a new electric water pump.   Dave changed the rubber seals again on the coupling and found 2 mountings were also shot.

On 1st May we motor sailed to Playa Blanca – Papagayo beach area, about 15 miles, on the South side of the island, and anchored.  On the 3rd., we sailed to Gran Canaria, 135 miles to the South end of the Island and went into PuertoMogan marina.

Grand Canary Island:

The third largest island, an area of 1,500sq km., it is almost cone shaped with verdant mountain slopes rising to 1932 metres on the peak El Poszo de las Nieves.  The capital is Las Palmas.

The West is the least densely populated part and San Nicolas is the main town.  The coastal area between Maspalomas and Mogan, is the Port of Arguineguin, Anfi, Puerto Rico, Amadores and Taurito.

This marina is also surrounded by shops, restaurants and apartments with flowering plants growing everywhere, a very pretty marina and village.   Very touristy and every Friday they had a market in the marina along the breakwater wall, where one could buy African, Moroccan and locally made craft work.

The weather was perfect everyday, clear blue skies and light to no wind, but 5 miles off shore the wind was blowing 40 –50 knots.  Part of the village is built in an old river bed and surrounded by hills, so we decided to walk up the hill and found many different trails to do, with beautiful views

We wanted to stay longer but we had decided to cross the Atlantic, so on the 8th May, we left in light winds. During the 2nd night out,  I was on watch and heard what sounded like a gun shot, but could not see anything wrong, except the genoa was flapping a  bit so I half furled it and when Dave came on watch at one in the morning and saw the stays were very loose.  He went to the bows and found the toggle at the top was broken.  We wrapped the genoa and used the storm jib and sailed with 3 reefs in main.  We made the decision to rather return to Mogan and make the repairs.

We beat most of the way in 20-30 knot winds, big swells and were worried about the rig.  We sailed past El Hierro, the most westerly island, sailed down the coast, and then overnight to La Gomera, then to Tenerife and anchored.  The following day we motored out past the point and got to the Wind zone where it was blowing a gale, 3 reefs in the main and storm jib, wind increased to about 40 knots and huge swells.

 

On the 15th, we arrived off Puerto Mogan and went to the marina.  Dave went to the chandlery for spares for a fuel pump, 1st one wouldn’t pump, so returned it, got another and tried that, also would not pump, so returned that.  I winched Dave up the mast, and  took the roller furler down on to the dock and Dave worked on the roller furler.  The following day Dave took the engine mountings off and both disintegrated.  Dave & Neels went to Las Palmas and bought engine mountings, fuel pump and toggle for the fore-stay.  Dave fitted the new engine mountings, no more noises, and cleaned the engine area.   On the 25th, winched Dave up the mast  again, and he connected everything on the fores-tay and tightened the fore-stay. We had decided to stay the season as it was too late to do the crossing, so on the 30th, we went out to anchor and put out a stern anchor to lie into the swells, stern to the rocks.  We went by bus a couple of time to Puerto Rico , which has many hotels, shopping centres, and a marina.

Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico Beach

After being at anchor for a month we were a bit fed-up with all the tourist activity, jet-skis etc., so  we went back to the marina, and got a berth  along the sea wall away from the tourists and restaurants.  Did our usual hike a couple of times, walked as far as the banana plantation, about 12km.

We decided to hire a car for 2 days, and see a bit of the island, and drove to San Nicolas over mountains to Artenara.  Drove to Cruz de Tejeda then to the beautiful village of Tejeda, where we stopped for lunch.

San Nicolas

Then drove to San Bartolome, here the river bed is an oasis of lush palm trees etc, then to Fataga and to Playa Ingles.

Tejeda

The following day  we drove to the Puerto Rico Chandlery for Volvo spares etc.  and then to the   CarreFour Atlantic centre.    Dave repaired the engine, the glow plugs etc.   repaired and fitted the cockpit table.  We went to the Irish Pub  for lunch and watched  South Africa vs. Australia Rugby, good game and we won.

On the 13th the festival started here, and dozens of boats from Arguineguin arrived with flags and loud music, filled all the open spaces in the marina. The festival lasted for 2 weeks, also a live jazz band playing every night, on the waterfront.  On the 26th, the festival ended with a big party and at midnight a lovely fireworks display.

We went with Neels to  Las Palmas, where we  bought some spares,  then down to the waterfront to a restaurant in the marina area.  Nice clean city, overcast weather here, and cool compared to Mogan.

We started hiking 2-3 times a week, doing the same hike each time up the hill and then finding different paths and returning to the viewsite overlooking the harbour.

The bus ride to Puerto Rico was quite nerve wracking, narrow roads and blind bends.

We spent a couple of weeks in the marina and then went back out to anchor, to get away from all the tourists and also to swim off the boat.

View to Anchorage -Dignity

On the 13th October, we hauled  the boat to anti-foul and do a few other jobs and on the 17th  we went  back in the water, to our berth in the marina for a week and then went back out to anchor.  We went to the Irish sports pub many times to watch the world rugby games and final.

During November the weather seemed to change, we had more wind and was quite rolly at the anchorage so on the 25th, we got a berth on the East wall, so tourists again and difficult to get on and off.

Had East winds blowing  and a lot of dust in the air.

Enjoyed Christmas with a few friends  and also New Years eve.   A Live band started playing lovely music, and at midnight they had fireworks and the band played till 3am

While staying in the Marina I met Claudia who owned a restaurant, ‘Cocina Creativo’, and she asked me if I would like to work in the restaurant.  She  did exclusive Tapas dishes, and very expensive.   So on Friday I worked in the restaurant from 1pm till 3pm and then back again from 8-12pm.  I worked there till just before leaving the island and enjoyed it.

Cocina Creativo Restaurant

For about 2 weeks in February we had East winds blowing and a lot of Sahara dust, so had to wash the boat off regularly

We took a day trip to visit a few of the other harbours and villages on the coast, we went to Arginiguin, Playa Engles, walked round shopping malls and along the beach front, and up the hill overlooking the famous Maspalomas sand Dunes.  

Playa Engles

On 19th February, expected stormy conditions to last at least 48 hours.  60 knot winds during the night and rain.  Our first big storm in the Canaries, which  happens every year, only 1 storm a year.  Following day still windy and raining, the high tide was pushing the seas over the sea wall, spectacular, washed through the restaurants, over the showers,  and broke holes in the road and some damage to the docks on the sea wall.

 

 On the 3rd March the easterly winds arrived again, bringing thick Sahara dust, couldn’t see  for dust, these conditions continued for the following 4 days.  On the 11th March  we went out to anchor again for 2 weeks and then returned to the marina on the sea wall side.   In April we decided to go to Las Palmas to visit some of the old sites and explore the city.  We went by bus which  took 1 ½ hours to get there.

Downtown Las Palmas:

We also visited the Botanical Gardens.

Las Palmas Gardens

Views over Puerto Mogan

We enjoyed everyday of our 11 months stay in Puerto Mogan, and on the 12th April we set sail for La Gomera Island, with 2 reefs in the main and ½ Genoa, and enjoyed a good sail doing  5-6 knots.   Off Tenerife  the wind was North West, so we motor sailed for about  4 hours to La Gomera., 72 miles.

The island is 375sqkm., shaped like a rock bun, with deep ravines and fertile green valleys and dense forests surrounding the almost central peak of Montana Garajonay at 1,487mts.  The capital is San Sabastian and has a very good marina, harbour and ferry service to all the islands.

We went into the Marina in San Sebastian.   Cloudy, windy and cold, not like in Mogan, and we had rain for a couple of days.  On the 15th, Dave & I walked to the bus station and got the bus to Agulo, and  from there we hiked straight up a steep high mountain.  Beautiful wild flowers and a lovely view from the top.  We walked past a lake etc, to the visitors office for information and had lunch there.    After lunch we walked down to  San Pedro, where we got the bus back to San Sebastian.

We explored the town of San Sebastian, and walked up the hill to a hotel, where we had a good view down to the marina and across to Tenerife Island.

La Gomera

We got the bus to Alto Del Contadero – El Cedro, the highest  point on the island, and had to walk about 3 miles to the start of this hike, and it was raining up there.   At the start of the hike, one goes into a dense rain forest.

This hike was down hill all the way.  The path from Contadero to Las Mimbreras offers  diverse nature.  The Vegetation starts at the summit with “Brezil” (Erica arborea – Heath Trees), followed deeper down by the the laurel forest, all along the river bed.    The next stage in the forest is the “Brezo”  heath tree, which reaches a height of 20mtrs.,  The 3rd stage of the hike is  the Laurel tree and the  Canary holly)., big hairy leaves.  Continuing down, there is a Barranco ( a fresh water stream, one of 5 in the Park.

From Las Mimbreras, we walked to El Cedro, a recreation area, had lunch there, and then continued down to  Monteforte – Barranco, then down to Hermigua town.   From El Cedro it was mostly steep down hill, still some rain and slippery.

Arrived at the road just in time to get the bus back to San Sebastian. The 12 Km hike was wonderful, but very tough on the knees.

We went for a walk up the  hill on a clear day and could see the snow on the Tenerife Peak,  and went to the bar – restaurant in the old Tunnel.

Restaurant in old Tunnel

We also walked to  a statue at the top of a hill on the outskirts of  San Sebastian with great views of the town.

On 21st April we left the wonderful Canary Islands and set sail for Cabo Verde Islands, downwind sailing, ROCK & ROLL.!!!

We had nice winds day and night,  very cold during the night and sailing  6-8 knots.  On the 28th April,  we arrived off the islands in the early morning, strong wind down the channel, about 30 knots.  We had 1 reef in the main and storm jib, doing  6-8 knots.  We sailed past the Santo Antao island and turned towards Sao Vincente, Mindelo harbour, we surfed  down the waves.  We dropped the  main at the entrance and motored to the anchorage.  Distance made was 820 miles,  Very windy, gusts 30-40 knots, but a protected anchorage.

Cape Verde Islands Lies just over 800 miles South West of the Canary Islands and is separated from the West African Coast by a channel some 325 miles wide.  Made up of ten larger and four smaller islands, which form a horseshoe open to the west.

Following day, Dave took the Genoa down and repaired the swivel which kept jamming.

Mindelo Town Square

We went ashore and found our way round the town and walked up the hill for a view to the otherside across to  Santo Antao island, and also overlook the harbour area.

We tried to hoist the Genoa and it caught on a sharp end and tore, too windy, so  we repaired the tear and tried again to hoist the sail  between gusts and  finally got the genoa up and quickly furled it.  Lift anchor at 4pm., on the 5th May and head for Barbados.   The wind was blowing  30-40-knots,  main with 2 reefs and ¼ genoa and we flew down the channel past Santo Antao island.  Once again we had good winds day and night and did 144 miles,   following day did 152 miles, same conditions.  By the 11th, it was cool during the night and the days warmer and  same sailing conditions, wind just off the stern.  The  15th we started getting lighter winds  and hotter during the days.   On  21st   we motor sailed all day and arrived off Barbados at 7am with no chart and called the harbour on the radio for directions to the harbour entrance.    We went alongside a very high wall inside the harbour.   Distance sailed was 2,187 miles, we had a pleasant trip, no bad weather for a change.   Dave went to check-in, took about 1 hour. We left the wall, and went out to the Carlile Bay anchorage, very clean water , lovely bay.

 We were only going to stay a week, but our credit card had expired and the bank said they would send a new card.   We  got a bus to the West coast of the island and went to the Port Charles Marina.

We walked to   The Garrison – in Hastings, near Bridgetown the capital, has the largest military Garrison in the Caribbean, the buildings are over 130 years old.

On the 5th June we got a bus to St. John on the East coast, drove through sugar cane fields.  We  walked  round a village and went to the old church and gardens.

St James

On the 14th we went to check if our card had arrived, still nothing, so we got a bus to the North end of the Island, about 2 hours, mostly farm land and very narrow roads and returned to Speightown.

Dave phoned the States again, and they cancelled the 2nd card, and said they would send another card, and could take  2 weeks. On the 21st,  Fedex delivered the card.  We enjoyed the 33 days in Barbados.

On the 24th June, we left Barbados for Grenada, just genoa and we were doing 6-8 knots,  and arrived off Grenada the following day and anchored in Prickly Bay.    I went ashore and walked  to the lighthouse.

then up the hill above the boatyard, and across to True Blue Bay hotel, and marina.

True Blue Bay

On 6th July we sailed to Margarita, and anchored in Porlamar.  Met other S.A. on ‘Saraband’ alongside us, Kenwyn & Johan, and  ‘Kamytoo’ was also there and we all met for lunch at Jackies.  On 11th July,we left for Cubagua. Spoke to the local kids and fisherman’s wife who asked us to bring them food etc. so the following day we went ashore and gave her cans of food, milk, clothes, paper and pencils and anti-biotics.  She gave us about 3 doz. fresh oysters which we had for dinner.

 On the 13th July, we motor sailed to Chimani SegundaWe walked on the beach and up the hill to the light house.

Playo Faro –  Chimani Segundo

Views from Hill!!

Stayed overnight and motor to Puerto La Cruz the following morning.   Bahia Redonda marina was full so we had to go to CMO.   On the 31st July, Tony and Noeline invited us to spend the weekend on their farm.

Back at the marina, “Saraband’ , ‘Watercress’,  then Roland and Lorraine on “Pisces 3” ,  ‘Double Dutch”,  and, “Fast Forward”, Audrey and Ken, arrived so we had a nice S.A. braai at the marina restaurant.

On 14th December,  we left the dock  and motored to La Borracha island for the day and the following morning we sailed to Piritu islands for the day then left for Tortuga, overnight sail and anchored in Cayo Herradura.  Kenwyn called us on the radio and they arrived about 2 hours later and anchored near us. Then Pisces 111 arrived, followed by  ‘Fast Forward’, and  ‘Philani’, 5  S.A. yachts and  ‘Wombat of Sydney’ also arrived, Mike and Lyn, Americans.  We went to them for diner, a delicious  curry.   On the 24th , we all went ashore for sundowners and snacks, a perfect  evening on the beach and a full moon.

 On 25th we decided to get away from the crowd for a while, and motored to Little Torgtuga islands.  The most perfect, windless day.

 We did a lot of snorkeling and Dave speared some fish, stayed 2 days and returned to Cayo Herradura.

Little Tortuga

Little Tortuga

Most days we swam to the  beach, walked on the beach and swam  back to the boat.  Evenings, we went ashore again with everyone else for drinks and snacks.

 On the 31st. Jan, we all made snacks for a beach party,  and many locals  on powerboats from Caracas  joined in the fun and watched the fireworks at midnight.

  Mike on Wombat took photos of S.A: yahts in Cayo Herradura anchorage from the top of  his mast.

//

15
Nov
09

2002 – Ft.Lauderdale – Spain

Barbara and I went to visit a small game park, where we were lucky enough to get close to a     Florida Panther.

Beautiful  Panther

Jan 1st.  Barbara & Stuart returned from Atlanta and we went out to the Red Lobster for a farewell dinner with them as they were leaving for Key West.  Barbara and Stuart wanted us to go with them to the Mediterranean and this planning went on till 4.30am

I started to sand the cockpit area, paint and varnish work.   We had now done 22,000 miles, and were planning to go to the Mediterranean, and so Dave fitted an Auto pilot.

We went to the New River shopping centre where Dave got to hang a Boa Constrictor round his neck.    In April we had a barbeque with, Mike, the owner of the property where our boat was and invited friends. Mike was returning to his house in Carolina and we were getting ready to leave.    We were also invited to  Mikes granddaughters garden wedding.

0118a  Mike & Jeans place - Pivate Dock - braai - Mark & Janic.tif

0120  The Weding

Dave checked the water inlet on the engine and found it to be rusted through, so ordered a new one from Volvo, also had to buy a gear lever.

0117  Private dock - use of Garden & Pool

0116  Squirels in Garden - I Tamed & Hand Fed

Squirels

We started to use the pool again, warmer weather.

Took me 7 months to tame the squirrels so they would take the nuts from my hand

0127   Fort Lauderdale - 2001

New River

0128

We will miss our friends very much, had a wonderful 9 months in Fort Lauderdale.

On May 1st, we  motored down the New River behind the River queen,   then sailed to the Palm Beach anchorage to overnight.

The following morning we left for Bermuda, 3 reefs in the main and full Genoa, and once we got to the gulf stream and with current we were doing  6-7 knots, lovely sailing conditions and just incredible having an auto-pilot.  We did 80 miles in 7 hours and the first 24 hours we did 190 miles and  slept most of the days and most of the nights, did not see ships, but we  did check now and then.  Couple of  days with no wind so I went over board for a swim,  the water was cold but refreshing.

On the  13 May, we arrived in Bermuda, 900 miles, and motored through the narrow cut and went  alongside  the  customs dock.  Dave went  to check-in and Barbara and Stuart came over in their dinghy.  We went out to anchor near ‘Walkabout’ and had dinner with them, ate, talked and drank till SUNRISE –  CRAZY!!!

Downtown St George - Bermuda

The following day we went ashore to the gardens, and walked round the pretty town.

We walked up the hill –  lovely views over the bay.

On Saturday, Stuart & Barbara fetched us and we went ashore, and bought bus tickets for a 1 day pass $25, and went to Hamilton.   Walked round the town then went by ferry across to the Dockyard which took 1 hour to the North West end of the island.

012  Ferry to            Little Girl Playing the Violin

Ferry - Little girl playing the Violin

Visited the glassblower building, Rum Café and book store, many shops here and a museum.

Sonesta Beach Resort

Got a bus to Sonesta beach hotel, walked round there, and returned to St. George’s.

Following day we went ashore for a late breakfast, then went to watch the locals play cricket.  Had a few days with strong wind and rain and we were waiting for good weather to leave, so we all went ashore and walked to the otherside of the island, to Tobacco Bay and to Catherine Fort.

We also walked up to the radio station, the highest point on the island, they don’t allow people inside anymore since Sept. 11, but Barbara asked and they let us inside the building.  They had cameras zoomed in on the yachts at anchor, could see our boat clearly, also the entrance to the bay and very powerful radio equipment.

On  the 30th, we left for the Azores, with full Genoa and did 6-7 knots, lovely sailing.  We had an SSB Radio receiver and Barbara contacted us with weather updates and according to Herb, advised us to stay south of 34deg., so we changed course and for the following days had lousy weather and sea conditions.

On the 13th day, no wind but still big swells all day and we saw 5 whales. The wind swung to the S.West, and we did 190 miles in 36 hours and the wind increased to 45 knots with big swells, Dave had to switch the auto-pilot off and steer the boat for 6 hours.  We were doing 7-8 knots, and 11-12 knots surfing down the swells.  We went up to 13 knots and Dave said he had to stop the boat, also tired of helming. So we heaved too, and just then the steering cable broke, and we still had 150 miles to go.

We took the emergency tiller out and fitted that, and steered for about 1 hour, just with 3 reefs in the main, then the tiller also broke.  The tiller was made of thin tube stainless steel. Dave knocked a piece of an old wooden paddle into the stainless steel shaft, and had to use a wrench to hold the wood and steel, which kept slipping off.  Dave tied the steering sheef to the steps.  The wind peaked at 50 knots.

On 17th June, in light wind we approached Horta, the seas were flatter and doing only 2-3 knots and still steering with a wrench, we managed to go into the bay and anchor just inside the breakwater.  Bermuda – Azores- Faial Island -Horta-  we did 2,250 miles, over 18 days.

View of Horta and Marina

We put the dinghy in the water and Dave went ashore to check-in. The marina was full but  they had 1 space along the wall where we would have to raft up to another boat.  Dave asked if someone could help tow us in.  The following morning a local guy came to our boat, we gave him a line and we lifted anchor.  He drove a bit fast and we were quite nervous going in to a full marina at that speed, but he sure knew what he was doing, took us down the inside wall, and parked our boat, just changed lines, and pushed, and we were rafted alongside a 60’ ferro, charter boat.

The Azores is a Volcanic archipelago of nine islands,  Flores, Corvo, Faial, and Pico belong to the Western group, and S. Jorge, Graciosa, Terceira islands, the central group, and Sao Miguel and Santa Maria islands form the Eastern group.

Faial island is at 38deg. N  and 28deg.30  West, 4.5 miles from Pico island.  The island is 21km long and 14 km wide.  The first settlers were Portuguese  in 1460.  The killing of whales was a big thing here in the early days, now only ‘whale watching’ which is very popular for the tourists, Scrimshaw is a very special handicraft (whale’s teeth and bones) with beautiful artwork.

Scrimshaw - Whale Tooth

We were very worried about ‘Walkabout’ as they weren’t in the marina, and should have arrived before us, we then heard 2 days later that they had gone to Flores island.

We went ashore for a welcome hot shower which cost $1.50 and they gave a bar of soap and a warm bath towel, then Lunch at the marina restaurant, a cheese burger and chips for $2.30.

We walked along the waterfront and admired all the paintings done by previous yachts.   We went to Peter’s place, which is a bar restaurant, gift shop and e-mail centre.  Most days were overcast, rainy and very cold.  We needed some exercise, so the walk up the steep hill to the supermarket was most enjoyable.  Eventually we had sunny weather and I was able to dry cushions etc., and Dave started doing the repairs.   Barbara and Stuart arrived and had to go alongside the marina wall on the outside and wait for a berth.  We spent all afternoon in the restaurant chatting about the lousy trip.

Caldeira Festival

We got a taxi to Caldeira, where the annual festival was, and walked round and stayed for about 2 hours, then returned to town for super.

Dave re-fitted the  steering pulley and glassed all in  again and the steering cable.  Barbara went to hire a car and we drove to Ponto dos Capelinhos,  on the western tip.  Then we drove over the mountain, to the centre of the island, very pretty, all along the roadside were wild pink roses and Hydrangeas,  to Caldeira, an enormous crater, about 2km in diameter and 400m deep, surrounded by hydrangeas and lush vegetation, ferns and other flora.

By now it was 2pm and all very hungry, so we drove to the North West of the island looking for a good restaurant, and luckily spotted a sign, Nick’s Hideaway, in Cedros.  I ordered lamb chops and veg. and the others ordered the pork and veg. $7,  very good meal.  Ordered coffee with fresh cream, and had about 3, then pancakes and fresh cream, all very delicious.  Drove along the coast and back to Horta.   Still had cold, overcast weather, no summer yet.

On Sunday 30th June, we got up early, to overcast and cloudy weather, and decided it’s now or never, so we went to get the 9am ferry, $2.50 each to Pico island, which took 20 min.

Pico is 8km from Faial, 42km long and 15km wide and  Pico mountain is 2,351mts., high, and is the highest  mountain in Portugal.

We got a taxi to the start of the walk .  Very steep climbing and Barbara found it quite tough going, but soon got used to it.  The flowers are very similar to the Cape, ericas etc.  Walked to the cave, had a little rest and water and continued, walked through the clouds to a beautiful, clear blue sky, and very hot.

We climbed about 2/3 of the way, and Stuart did not want to go any further, so we stopped for lunch.  No point really on going to the top, as the cloud cover was thick below us and all round the island, so no view over the sea to the other islands.

Way above the clouds!!

Walked back down to the cave where we stopped for nice cold water, continued down to the road and waited for the taxi.  We enjoyed the day.

A fantastic Hike!!

We had to  wait for  the  9.15pm ferry back to Horta so  found a bar and had some nice cold beers and a meal.

I went to paint a white background on a space on the wall.   Everyone has to make a painting before leaving,  for good luck.

Walkabout - Painting

Dave started the painting and  Barbara gave us all her left over paint as she had already finished her painting and Dave completed our painting.

It was time to leave as our spares for the auto-pilot had arrived.

Our Painting - Table mountain

Lovely views over Horta at night.

On the 5th July, we left Horta for Sao Jorge and had to motor sail the 22 miles.  It was festival time there, so many small local boats in the anchorage and loud live music all night.

Sao Jorge Festival

We went ashore and walked round the small town, and flea-market.   At 4.30 the bull run started.  They let the bull run along the harbour wall, and crowds of people sat on the higher wall, or on the edge and when the bull ran towards them, they would  jump into the water.  ‘Walkabout’  left at 8pm for Terceira island and we left the following morning.

Sao Jorge to Terceira island is 65 miles and on 9th July we left for Terceira Island.  On arrival we called ‘Walkabout’ to see where they were anchored, and said they went into the marina, and said it was all free, couldn’t believe it, so we also went to the marina. Dave went to check in at the office, and they said it was all free, laundry, water, power, showers, dock, until they say we would have to pay,  as the opening of the marina was going to be on the 20th July.

Terceira Island - Marina

             We walked through the town, many shops and bars, coffee bars etc.   I went for a walk in the late afternoon, and climbed up the steep hill, good views from there.

On Thurs., we all went to town and got a bus to the north side of the island.  Terceira island is 29km long and 17.5 km wide.    We were in the town of Vitoria on the East coast, and the main old city is Angra do Heroismo on the South end.

We got the bus to the small town of Biscoitos on the North side, which is the wine zone and went to visit the  small wine museum, bought some wine, then went by  bus to the city of Angra.  Walked round the town, and to the botanic gardens, then returned to Vitoria.

Terceira  Marina

On the 15th,  we left the marina  for an over night sail to Sao Miguel,  95 Miles.   The marina was full, so we picked up a mooring bouy, but the following day a yacht left and ‘Walkabout’ went to their place along the wall, and we went and rafted up to them.  Following day we went to walk round the town, to the Gardens and the Palace.  Sao Miguel is the largest island in the group of 9,   65 km long and 14 km wide.  We hired a car again and drove to Sete Cidades, high up in the hills and the roads were lined with hydrangeas.

 

This is where the big lake is, one side is blue with a strip of land between, and the other side is green, but in the mist, could not see the colours.

Then drove over to the North side and along the coast, lovely tree lined roads, to the town of Ribeira Grande, Porto Formoso, and down to the town of Furnas.

There are hot water springs, many pools with steam coming off.  We drove past the Furnas Lagoon to the Terra Nostra Park where we saw a variety of exotic trees and plants and a big open-air warm water swimming pool.

 The gardens were beautiful.   Then drove back to the south coast, Aua de Alto, Santa Cruz, Lagoa and back to Ponta Delgada.   We visited 5 of the islands, enjoyed Faial, Terceira and Sao Miguel,  and spent 36 days in the Azores.  Azores – Gibraltar –  1,050 Miles.  24th July – 3rd August 2002.

On 24th July, we left the marina with ‘Walkabout’, flat seas, a light breeze and very cold weather again.  We had a few days of windlass conditions, and the 5th day out the wind was N.East 10-15 and lovely sailing, and later the wind increased to 40knots.  We kept heading more to the North and ‘Walkabout’ headed south, so we lost contact with them by the 3rd day out.   Nearing the straits we had no wind again, very misty in the early hours, so with these conditions we motored, had little current and made our way to the customs dock. We went out to anchor as the 2 marinas here were full.  The airfield astride the isthmus with the road to Spain running through the middle, the runway was built out into the Bay on reclaimed ground.

Following day we managed to get a berth at the Queensway Quay Marina, right in town, and amazingly alongside ‘Walkabout’.  We sailed 1,048 miles.

Queensway Quay Marina

Lovely weather, clear blue skies, about 30-32 deg., during the day and a light breeze from every which way.

The marina was $16 a day plus water & power.  Stuart flew out to Columbia to go and work for an oil company for 6 weeks, so Barbara had a car as Stuart flew from Malaga.  We drove round Gibraltar, and up part of the mountain. The price to enter the tourist part of the mountain was £7 p.p., and £1.50 for the car.   We went to the Caves, the Great Siege Tunnels and the Moorish Castle.

The Tunnels

The Moorish castle, was rebuilt in 1333 and is situated on the North-western slope.

The Gibraltar Botanic Garden was opened in 1816 and contains some 600 species of tree, shrubs and flowering plants. 

The city centre is long and narrow, main street, and Irish town, and at the North end is Casemates Square which is surrounded by restaurants and shops.

The Rock of Gibraltar owes its fame and its place in history to two features.  It rises directly from the sea to a height of 450 mtrs., and is connected to the mainland by a long low isthmus which makes it look like an island, its position at the eastern entrance of the narrow strait. Its total area is only 2sq., miles and has a history of 3,000 years.  Population app. 30,000, Spanish, English ex pats, (native Gibs., 20,000) and the rest Moroccans

On 12th August, Dave flew from Gibraltar to Gatwick, then bus to Heathrow and flew home to JHB, and planned to return about the 13th September. From home, Dave was able to get us a 6 month Shengen visa, so this was going to be a major problem for us as one can’t tour Europe in 6 months.

Barbara and I got our bikes out and cycled or walked everywhere. Walked from shop to shop, lovely town.  We went to the Botanic Gardens a couple of times, also cycled round to the beaches on the Med. side.

We had done miles of walking and miles of cycling, seen most of the shops, and tourist attractions, went to the square on Thursday nights for live music, tried a few restaurants, roast beef & Veg.

Parson’s Lodge, once housed three, 18 ton ten inch rifled muzzled loaders during the 2nd world war.  Europa Point lighthouse is the only one regulated by Trinity House outside the U.K., it dates back to 1841, 49 mtrs., above  sea level and a range of 37 km.

We cycled to the South end, road past the Parson’s Lodge, through 2 tunnels, and down to the waters edge, 2 swimming pools and I went in for a quick cool-off.  We also cycled to the lighthouse point.

Parsons Lodge

The Rock includes the St. Michael’s Cave, situated 300m above sea level.  A sound and light system has been installed that enhances the cave’s natural features, underground lake and a multitude of stalactites and stalagmites.  The Rock Apes are tailless monkeys, known as Barbary Macaques, imported as pets in the early days of the British garrison.

The great Siege Tunnels, excavated by the British army during the great siege of 1779-93, about 30km of tunnels.

To get to the upper rock, one can hire a taxi, a car, use the cable car or walk up.  The hike starts from the Elliot hotel, meandering path up and then the last third, up steps to the cable car station and restaurant.

Walk along the rock down to the Caves and back down to town.  The other route, is to go to the entrance at Jews gate and walk up the Mediterranean steps to O’Hara Battery, on the southern peak of the Rock and go round the east side, past the huge 9.2 inch Guns which dominate the Straits.

Native pines and wild olives, many wild flowers, namely, brooms, dwarf Fan or Palmetto Palm, Jasmine and wild asparagus etc.  On the edge walking with views to Spain, Morocco and Tarifa.

On September 10th, Gibraltar Day, everyone dressed in Red and White. There was a huge crowd in Casemates square, for speeches and then the release of thousands of balloons at 12.15pm.

On Friday 13th, Dave returned from South Africa, said he enjoyed his stay very much.   It rained all day on Sunday so Dave did repairs on the Alternator, had a bush made, checked the steering and batteries.  Just before leaving Gibraltar Dave and I hiked up the Rock.  We spent 50 days in Gibraltar.

On 25th we left for Spain,  no wind and motored to Marbella and anchored overnight.   Following day we  motor sailed all day to Malaga – Velez, 50 miles.   We made overnight stops in La Rabita,  Cabo De Gata,  to Cartagena, 90 miles and went to the marina.  This city gives the impression it is built in a big circle, we walked to the  hypermarket, and chandlery etc.  We Spent 4 nights here, due to the North East winds.  We went to look at some ruins, and just enjoyed the few days in the  city.

On the 4th October we left the marina, wind blowing 15-20knots North East and motor sailed all day to Puerto de Tomas Maetre, Marmenor and anchored just inside a reef  in a protected lagoon.  Following morning, we motorsailed all day to Isla Tabarca, and overnight, a bit rolly and during the early hours of the morning the wind swung to the West, so we were on a lee shore and left at 7.30am. and had a  good sail for a few hours to Cabo Negro,  to Ensonade de los Palles. We went to the entrance to the lagoon and anchored off the town with mountains in the back ground.

On the 7th October, we motor sailed all day to Ibiza to  San Antonio bay. This anchorage is open to the West, and the bottom was thick grass. The wind increased and we dragged and a couple of other boats also dragged.  We then went to a mooring bouy, but there was a big fetch coming into the bay, not a good anchorage.  We went ashore and had a bit of a look round and only stayed a few days.

We motor sailed to San Miguel anchorage and as we approached the anchorage it opened up into a lovely bay, with hotel on one side and a nice beach, with high rock cliffs on both sides.  Protected, except from the North – N.West.   On the 14th, we motor sailed to Mallorca, Santa Ponsa Bay where we stayed overnight and in the morning we sailed to Palma.   They said the marina was full, only one berth for a smaller boat, but they let us squeeze ourselves into this berth.  Spent 10 nights in the Marina Club Real at  30Eu per night.

This is a huge marina, so the walk to town was quite a distance.  We went out nearly every day to explore the very clean city with old and new buildings, parks etc. We went to  Plaza Major and Plaza Oliver, visited the beautiful Cathedral ‘La Seu’,  also Plaza Gomida and walked up to the Castle Bellver surrounded by lovely gardens, overlooking Palma.

On Sunday, Jessie & Dion invited us to go for a drive to Puerto Portals, then to Puerto Andraiz, Palma Nova, back to Palma and onto the highway and across the island to the North side to Porto Pollenca. Farmlands and lots of open space, and mountains.  Drove to Alcudia,  mountains all round a big bay, then to Bonaire and Port Alcudia.  Drove back through Inca, nut groves and olive groves, to Palma.

 

 

 

A cold front came through with Gale force S-West 80 km winds.   While waiting for good weather we went by train to  Soller, about  1 hour,  through the many mountain tunnels.

We walked to the town and harbour area.

On  the 25th, we returned to Santa Ponsa bay  and anchored.   For the following few days we had lovely weather and enjoyed walking to the town and round the bay area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weather was  very cold at night and on the 6th Nov. there was  a Gale warning, and people advised us not to stay  at anchor.    Dave went to the Marina to check for a berth and we left the anchorage for the marina and the full Gale arrived at 3am, force 9, then dropped to force 6.  Being the first dock, we had a lot of surge and the lines took        great  strain, and  the one fur-lead bent.     Once again, on the 9th, another Gale warning, West wind and by evening blowing force 10.

Apart from the weather I enjoyed Mallorca very much, Palma and Santa Ponsa.

Santa Ponsa - Mallorca -Spain

On the 10th November we left the  marina for Cartagena, we decided we had had enough of the cold lousy weather.  Just arrived in the marina and there was another gale warning, and for the  following 2 days, 50knot winds and rain,with another gale warning, so had to sit and wait.    Spent 13 days in Cartegena.

Going to downtown Cartegena

On the 26th Nov. we left Cartegena for Agua Dulce marina and stayed 2 nights.  Nice town and marina.

On the 29th November we  motor sailed to Almerimar Marina.  This very big marina has  1,000 berths, and is  surrounded by apartments and restaurants, supermarkets etc. We had lovely views across to the Sierra Nevada mountains from our boat.

Very cold at night and some days also cold.  We got the bus to El Ejido, the nearest town, has a shopping centre, and supermarket.   I also walked to the castle which was 6km from the marina.

We unpacked my bicycle again and  I rode to the castle along the beach, also cycled to the bird reserve and lagoon, to the  lighthouse,  and cycled a few times to the shopping centre.  This route had a  very steep long hill after leaving the marina, cycled along the road next to the highway, greenhouse plastic all the way to the centre.

Almerimar Marina

On December 25th, we went to the Cubano restaurant for Christmas lunch and a party.  About 40 people, each person got  2 bottles of wine, choice of 3 dishes, I had fish, Dave had the pork, and sweets.  A great party.

04
Nov
09

2001 – Panama – U.S.A.

We had a lovely sail to Porto Bello, a beautiful bay surrounded by green hills and old Forts, and we anchored below the Fort.   Following day we climbed up the hill to the Fort, and then continued on a path through thick bush, to the top where we had lovely views to the town and across the bay.

064 Anchorage - Porto Bello - Panama

On Sunday 7th we had to leave for Isla Linton as we had made plans to meet up with our friends Colleen and John on ‘Bow Bells’ in Isla Linton.  We had 15-20knot N.East winds and big swells, we just weren’t going anywhere fast and took 3 hours to get there.   A family of 3 Spider monkey’s live in the dilapidated house, so we went close to the dock and gave them bananas.

We all went by dinghy to Isla Grande to buy some fresh produce.   We also went to the private property across the bay, where the owner has some injured wild animals in cages, and he looks after them and feeds them.  We decided to walk to Panamarina, about 12 miles, up and down hills to the marina, where many yachts leave their boats whilst they fly home.

077 Walk to Jose Povre - John & Coleen

Walk to Panamarina

We went to the restaurant for lunch and a rest, then we walked back, and about ¾ of the way back a truck stopped and gave us a lift back to the main road.  We went to the shop and bought delicious ice creams.

On the 12th we left for Porto Bello, did the same walks up to the fort with Colleen & John.  Had a wonderful time with them, and they left to go through the canal.  Paul & Vivian came for a barbeque, and Paul played the Sax for us.

We spent a month in Porto Bello, walked up the hill every other day, went to town and visited the other Fort on the town side of the bay.  Also took the bus to the Cheese Restaurant and walked up the hill, past a church, to private farm land, and the owner gave us permission to walk on his property, and had lovely views from there.   We sometimes took the bus to Colon to buy groceries and returned in the late afternoon.

 Day Hike into the hills.

We walked up to the Port Bello Dam

On the 25th, Karen & Odd arrived on ‘Capella’, was lovely to see them again. We all went ashore,  as there was a ‘Congo’ band playing at the Museum.  There were many yachts anchored here and we all got together for Happy Hour up at the Fort. On Sat. 24th Feb. a 20knot North East wind was blowing, and we left with “Capella’ for Providencia.   This island is off Nicaragua, but belongs to Columbia.  Mr Bush, the port captain came on board, to check us in.

s.v Capella

 We all went ashore to explore this island, hired a taxi for a day trip, a lovely island with very friendly people.     We went ashore to meet  Gloria & Rob, who organised a ride to the other side of the island for the start of a  hike up to the highest peak, 2,500ft.  Lovely forest, but the path was very rocky and slippery, about a 12km walk with  beautiful views from the top.

  

Walk across the bridge ‘ views to anchorage

View across bay to hill.

On the 4th March, we set sail for the Cayman Islands and had lousy weather, also a loose engine mounting. We arrived late on  Saturday, so had to pay $75 overtime  & they told us where to go and anchor.  Not allowed to anchor near the reefs.

Grand Cayman – Georgetown

 On the 12th, ‘Capella’ arrived and we went ashore to check out all the tourist shops.  The anchorage was a bit rolly due to all the activity from the cruise ships and wind.  We enjoyed swimming and snorkeling off the boat.

The anchorage – Cruise Ships

On March 18th, Dave went ashore to collect our spear-guns, and we set sail for Cuba, 140 miles and had  wonderful sailing conditions.

Saw many Dolphins

We went alongside at the  Cayo Largo marina and had a couple of officials come on board, filled in the forms, then the doctor, 2 other guys came on board and checked for fresh foods, then customs came on board and searched the boat, and cost $90.   A cold front was going through from the States, so we decided to wait it out and  Dave tightened the engine mounting. We walked to the airport, had lunch at the restaurant, chicken & chips.

Great to be in CUBA!!!

We stayed for a week, and had to give a days notice to check-out, and once again all the officals came on board and searched the boat.  We left with ‘Capella’ and motored to Isla De Rosario 20 miles, and anchored off a reef.  Fisherman came to us with 4 crayfish tails for a $1 & they wanted some rum.   Beautiful beaches and reefs with abundant sea life and crystal clear water.  Dave trawled and caught a big Nassau Grouper, so had Karen & Odd for supper again.

Isla De Rosaria

Cayo Compos

On 26th, we motor sailed 25 miles to Cayo Campos, pass some reefs and anchor in 2,5mtr, with grass bottom, off a lovely beach.  Dave trawled again and caught a big grunter.  We ate so much fish and crayfish.  Stayed 2 days then sailed to the next anchorage to Cabo Frances, 50 miles, a beautiful sandy bay and anchored for the night as one is not allowed ashore here.

The following day we decided to sail overnight to Maria La Gorda, where we picked up a mooring, no anchoring aloud.  Authorities came along side, filled in forms again and paid $5 for the mooring per day. We went ashore to try and buy some groceries and  first went to buy beers, then to the next building for chicken and beef, eggs, etc. and they gave us a garbage bag to put everything into.  We then went to the next building to buy bread and margarine which was already melting.  We enjoyed snorkeling on the reefs and going for walks on the long beaches.  We had to go and check out again and the officials came on board to check and search the boat.

On 2nd April we sailed to the west end of the island, round Cabo San Antonio and went to Cayo Lena for the night, then to Cayo Beunavista, 40 miles.  Very shallow waters, sand and grass bottom,  mangroves  and mosquitos.   We stayed 2 days then motor sailed to Cayo Jutias, 38 miles and went ashore and walked to the hotel.  The winds seemed to increase in the afternoons, so after a few days we motor sailed 30 miles to Cayo Levisa and anchored off a mangrove bay.   We stayed a few days and left in a light east wind, but by the afternoon was blowing 15-20 knots again and big swells and motor sailed over night and arrived at Hemmingway Marina the following morning and went alongside the officials dock.  First officials came on board, filled in forms again, then next 2 guys with a dog on board, and checked all cabins, and the following 2 officials searched the lockers etc.  Eventually we left that dock and went alongside in the marina.

 We spent a month in Havana, exploring the city, going to different areas, the markets, museums, different restaurants and just enjoyed this city very much.   Met 2 very nice young locals and they invited us to their apartment.

 

Karen & I also went to Havana, leaving the guys to do boat work!!!  We walked to the Presidential Palace, The Museum of the Revolution dates back from 1920 –  the early 1960’s.

Cuba Transport

In the Central Park area, we walked to the Gran Teatro, hotel Inglaterra, The Chinese Quarter and the National Capitol.  The Capitol  was inaugurated in 1929 and since 1960 has been the headquarters of the Academy of Sciences.  Cuba was the first country in Latin America to have a railway, started in1837.

National Capital Building   –

The South African Embassy

We visited the Church of Santa Paula, Plaza Vieja, Palace of the Captains General, The Havana Cathedral and the Market.

058 Railway station - Bike Transport

057

 Karen – Coffee shop

View to Havana From Marina Hotel!!

We had to go alongside customs dock to fill in forms again which took ½ hour to check out and motor out over reefs.  We enjoyed our stay in Cuba very much.

We set sail for St Petersburg and had some good sailing weather.  Went on a reach for the last 20 miles to the entrance and called the coast guard as to where we could anchor – reply was ‘anywhere’.  We had to maneuver through some crab pots, and went to anchor near the interstate bridge.  The following day we went alongside at the transient dock in the  municipal marina.    We had to go to the Clearwater airport to do immigration.

002 St. Petersburg town Marina - Dignity

St Pete’s Marina

005 St Petersburg - Town Pier

One night we went to an amazing street party. We met Sharon, a South African now living in St Petersburg and we went with her to the S.A braai in Secret Harbour, Tampa.  About 150 South Africans attended this barbeque, quite surprising and an enjoyable day.  After staying in the marina for a week, we went round to the anchorage, near the town pier.  Since leaving Cuba the weather was rather cold and by mid May the weather improved, light winds and warmer days.  There was always something going on here, a Jaz festival in the park, Jet-Ski races and the weekend before we left they had a list of groups performing in the park again, Nellie Fertado etc.  Wonderful to hear all this music on the boat, and the anchorage was very crowded with local boats.  We stayed  6 weeks in St Petersburg.

On 31st May, we went to the municipal dock for fuel and filled the water tanks and motored 20 miles to Egmont Cay, for a few days.  We sailed with full main and genoa to Fort Myers, 30 miles, and anchored off a small cay and after a couple of days we sailed to Key West, a lovely little town, very busy and very touristy.

050 Southern Point

046 Key West - Shells

After a few days in Key West we just made overnight stops at Marathon,  Key Largo,  and Elliot Key.  We sailed inside the coral reef, where the sea was calmer than on the outside.  Then the last 9 miles to Coconut Grove anchorage where we stayed for a few days and then went across to Biscayne Key.  We  sailed to Palm Beach and stayed a month and  had some wild weather go through that anchorage.  We met a South African, Mark who was now living in Ft Lauderdale and suggested we go there,  so we sailed to Ft Lauderdale and motored up the New River to the I-95, where Mark had found  a private berth for us.  We had the use of the  garden and pool which was wonderful.

0110 Palm Beach - Dignity at anchor

Palm Beach – Anchorage

We went to the RiverPark Shopping centre –

We had many barbeques with Mark and Janice, Linda and Neal, Liz & Pete, and also did some day trips with Linda and Neal, in the Fort Lauderdale area and Miami.  I went cycling with Linda and shopping at all the different shopping malls.   It was great being on the New River at Christmas Time, with all the boats passing by with Christmas lights and waving at the people as the River Queen went by.   We also met up again with Barbara and Stuart on Walkabout, they were in the town marina, and we went to the beach with them.

Fort Lauderdale Beach – Stuart & Barbara

02
Nov
09

2000 – Venezuela – Panama

Because of the bad storms in the Caribbean and the high seas and wind in Venezuela, there were many shells on the beaches, and Di and I went to Paseo Colon in the morning and collected a couple of bags full of shells.

In February we went to Piritou Islands, 20 miles  East of Puerto La Cruz.  I walked round the island, took all day and once again  collected many lovely shells.  Very windy in the afternoons, which brought a bad fetch through the channel.  Sheena enjoyed the long walks, and swims.

 On Monday 21st Feb.  I started canvassing the marinas and downtown area, to make another PLC directory.  I worked in the mornings, and returned to the boat after lunch and worked on the computer making the adverts.   We  had barbeques twice a week with all the other boaters.

Over the  Easter weekend, we once again sailed to La Boracha island, lovely weather, but the anchorage was too crowded so we only stayed 2 days then sailed to Piritou islands again.   Long walks with Sheena and many swims.

During the night it was quite cold and very windy.  We left on Tues. 25th April and went back to CMO Marina.   Sheena became sick 2 days later, coughing, wouldn’t eat and became weak.

On Thursday 27th Dave left for Arekuna, in the jungle to build another 4 John Boats.  (article published in the Compass paper).

Arakuna

John Boat

We were faced with another challenge, apart from surviving the mosquitoes called Puri-puri, (which have a vicious bite, causes serious swelling and itching for about 3 days in some people, yours truly included), was to join the mold which had had a lot of the bracing timbers removed or broken off to fit in the plane so we had to contend with some distortion.  This was however, accomplished with much sweat, swearing and itching.

019  Arakuna

021

Another problem we had to solve was to build a strongback and level it so as to maintain perfect mold shape.  There were no areas accessible to us which were plumb enough for boat building and in the end we settled for a spot in the shade with a fall of about 1 foot in 6 which is quite steep and the whole process had to be of a temporary nature.  So with blocks of wood, stones and wedges we managed to get the strongback plumb and the mold joined and in place, ready to start molding.

The molding took us 14 days to accomplish and at last we had three new Johnboats ready to go and it was only at this stage that I found out exactly where the boats were going to operate! The plan is to tow the three new boats with ‘Miso’  (the first John Boat built) to the first set of rapids on the Caroni, then to carry the three new ones around the rapid with engine, fuel and provisions and then to tow the remaining two with one of the new boats to the next set of rapids and then to carry the two remaining boats around the rapid and so on until there were three boats spread out along the river. This will be an excursion offered by Arekuna to their guests and sounds like a lot of fun but I am glad I only had to build the boats and not deliver them to site.

We went on a short tour to Canaima and the Angel Falls

Canaima

On Monday 1st May, I called the Vet, he came and examined Sheena and took a blood test for heartworm,  and the following day  the vet said she didn’t have heartworm, but gave  me antibiotics for the cough.  She still didn’t eat much, and became very weak, I had to carry her off the boat.  On Friday 5th May, I went to the  barbeque and returned  to the boat early, and Sheena was just lying there,  I called Rene on the radio and Sheena was just looking at me, she then died in my arms. Could not believe she was gone, I managed to call Dave on the SSB radio, and he was also devastated.  The vet did an  autopsy and found Sheena had liver cancer, and it had spread to her lungs.  On Friday 12th May Dave returned, we were very sad and miss Sheena so much.

 

On Friday 30th June I finished the book and gave it to the printer.

1999-2000 Directory

2001 cover

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A 90’ yacht, ‘Old Glory’ arrived here, Naeline is American and Phil a New Zealander, Naline sings and plays keyboard, and with Frank on ‘Ojimbo’ who sings and plays the guitar,  had many live singing, and party’s at CMO,  great fun.

Frank & Kevin – Mark & Valerie

Rene & Di

We were now getting ready to leave Venezuela.   We went on the hard for a week, to do the bottom, the rub rail and polish the hull, also painting and varnishing in the cockpit and other boat work..   I distributed the books to the clients.  We had a party at CMO, Kevin & Rene, George, Noeline and Tony, Naeline and Phil and Anthony, Karen & Kevin, Frank, Mark and Valerie.  Naeline and Frank sang again, and we barbequed legs of lamb etc.  we later ended up on Old Glory to continue the party.

Naeline, Rene, Noeline & Belky

 Some of the boaters at the party: Naeline, Mark & Valerie, Rene & Kevin, Belkie & Chris, Noeline & Tony, Kevin & Frank.

058 Frank Singing - Playing Guitar

Frank

 On Tuesday 15th August we LEFT CMO Marina for El Oculto,  we love this anchorage, but miss having Sheena around.

 We left on the 21st  Aug. for Coche, stayed overnight and motor sailed to Margarita, to Porlamar.  Left Margarita on the 24th and motor sailed to Puerto Santos over on the Venezuela mainland, overnight, and motor sailed to Medina, a lovely anchorage, but a bit rolly.      We left 0n the 26th  for San Francisco bay, overnight there and the next day we motor sailed to Trinidad and went to Coral Cove Marina.  We walked to the other marinas, to the chandlery and bought spares for the boat.  Once again had a wonderful time in Trinidad, seeing  friends and had a few barbeques with , Les & Di, Collin and Angelique, Neels & Debby, Barbara and Stuart and Lorne and Wendy .  On the 12th Sept, we left for Chacachacari anchorage and visited the ruins of the leper hospital etc.    La Boheme was also anchored there, so wonderful to see them again.
024  Erik & Ellen, Puchini - s.v. La Boheme

Erik & Ellen -Puchini - La Boheme

We left  on the 13th for San Francisco Bay, then back to Margarita Island, where we stocked up on all the good stuff, and  left on 20th for Cubagua and  overnight there, then to Paseo Colon anchorage off the town for the night, and  back to CMO marina.   We  went to Noeline on the farm for a weekend.

Noeline - Farm

On Wed 27th we left again for La Boracha Island where we anchored till 5pm and set sail for Tortuga,  lots of thunder and lightning, and during the following days,  we had  S.E wind and rain at night, then the wind swung to the N.E.  and we left for Los Roques, lovely overnight sail to West Key and anchored off Cayo Agua, and stayed till the 15th then sailed to Los Aves,  Isla Sur, Barlovento, a nice and calm anchorage.    We took a dinghy ride down the canal, and took photo’s of the birds, blue sooty terns, and many baby’s.

075a   archipelago Los Roques - Venezuela

Los Roques

080  Blue tern Chicks

On  19th we left for Aves de Sotavento, and caught a  barracuda  on the way.    We met  up with Norweigens who we new at the CMO Marina, Odd & Karen on Capella, and invited them to our boat for a fish barbeque.

Set sail for Bonaire, and had a fast sail along the coast, and picked up a mooring as no anchoring is aloud.

We went ashore with Odd and Karen, and walked  round the lovely town, and beach front.  Swam from the boat in crystal clear water.   We motored to the marina, and went alongside for fuel and water, and while pumping  fuel in, the inlet pipe came off inside the boat and diesel all over.  Dave stopped the fuel and did a quick repair, filled the tanks and went to a berth for the night.   We went to an excellent restaurant for a fish dinner, and returned to the boat for one of our worst nights, fighting off mosquitos all night, no sleep, and went back to the mooring early the next morning.

On Thursday 26th Oct. we sailied to Curacao and anchored in Spanish Waters.  During the following 2 weeks we explored Willemstad, visited a few museums, casinos and resorts.  We left on the 8th and motor sailed to Santa Cruz Bay and anchored.  Went ashore with Karen & Odd for a walk on the beach,  and enjoyed the couple of days there.

005  Curacao - 3 Weeks

Curacao

006  Entrance To Spanish Waters - Anchorage

Leaving Spanish Water

Sat. 11th we left for the San Blas islands, 650 miles, Karen & Odd were going to Columbia first and we planned to meet them in Panama in January.  The first 3 days we had nice sailing conditions,  then the following 2 days the wind increased and  huge seas.  We were about 80 miles off shore.  Saw many huge floating logs and debry.  On the 6th day, the wind decreased and seas reduced  on nearing the San Blas, but one enormous swell came along and flung Dave out the bunk, resulting in bruised ribs and leg.  Arrived on Thurs. 16th Nov.,  at Porvenir island.

 Before Dave could drop the anchor 4 dug-out boats arrived with Kuna woman trying to sell Molas.  Porvenir is a small island with a landing strip for small planes.   During the night, a storm arrived bringing  tons of rain, and winds gusting to 40knots.   We went ashore and walked round the island, then went by dinghy to the other small islands, and bought bread etc. Kuna ladies arrived again, and I bought another Molar.

Porvenir - San Blas - Kuna Indians

  

On Monday 20th we left the anchorage for the Hollandes Cays, Eastern Cays, 15 miles, and anchored off Banedup Cay in 11 mtr.   Many  boats anchored in the  ‘Swimming Pool’ area.   This  anchorage was protected from wind and  current, lovely.  I spent many days walking round this small island, warm water, went snorkeling on the reefs but saw only a few fish as the  place has been cleaned out, and we had to go outside  the main reef and swam along a beautiful wall of coral and abundance of fish.   Dave trawled for fish.    We went by dinghy round other islands, and snorkeled, and spent 10 wonderful days here.

On Thurs. 30th Nov. we went to the town Diablo, close to the mainland.  There were about 3,000 people living there.  The houses were made out of bamboo and palm leaves.

 We went ashore to buy fresh fruit,  groceries, and chicken (with head and legs).

We also went by dinghy up the Diablo river.    We motored  a couple of miles, and stopped near a waterfall for a  swim in the clear cold water.

We stayed 3 days and left for Green island where some  locals came round with giant crabs, bought one.   Also bought another 2 Molas.

025  Rio Diablo034  Bridge joins 2 islands

Spent 4 days in Green Cays,  then we returned to Diablo for fresh produce, stayed a  day and sailed back to  Hollandes cays again.  About 25 yachts at the Swimming Pool.  Our VHF radio wasn’t working, and  Andy offered to look at it and try and repair it but found it wasn’t possible to repair, so he  lent us a radio till we bought a new one in Colon.

 Spent days walking round the island again, swimming and reading, and stayed 5 days, then left for Porvenir island.   Nice downwind sail and Dave caught a black fin Tuna.

We left on the 17th   in horrible seas, squalls and arrived in Isla Grande where we stayed a couple of days, then motor sailed to Colon, to Christobel anchorage known as the Flats.

037  Isla Grande

Isla Grande

We went ashore for supper at the marina.   Dave repaired and fitted another alternator and got diesel.  We were warned not to walk in town, Colon is a dangerous city.  We went ashore and got a taxi to town, and  he showed us where we could walk, and where not to walk.    We got a bus to Panama city which  took about 2 hours, and a taxi to the chandlery to buy a new VHF radio, etc.

 On Dec. 24th we left for the Chargres River, the entrance was quite tricky to enter, big swells and  had to go close to the cliff side, with reefs on other side then between a narrow area, with beach and reef and then enter the mouth of the river,  and staying in the middle we motored for about 3 miles up the river.

Chagres River

We  saw  howler monkeys, and anchored on a wide bend in the river.  Lovely fresh warm water  swims.  We went by dinghy further up the river where we saw more monkeys,and went down the tributaries.   We cleaned the hull and polished.

We left early in the morning by dinghy going up the river again, and left the dinghy at a dock then walked up the hill to the dam wall overlooking  lake Gatun, and the Panama Canal, first loch.  We returned to the dinghy and went  across the river to another dock, where we put our boots on and walked on a path into the dense jungle, loved it, but we were warned by park police of deadly snakes, so didn’t go very far in, about half mile and returned to the  dinghy.  We went  slowly down the river and saw different monkeys, 2 sloth and many beautiful birds.  Thousands of parrots in the late afternoons, and very noisy.

049  Lake Gatun - Canal

View to Canal-Gatun Lake

058  Jungle Flora

Hill – Gatun Lake

We left on the 29th   as the river was flowing quite fast from all the rain,  and motored back to the Flats.  The following day the rains started again with strong winds, 40-50 knots and pouring rain.  We dragged slowly for 3 days, so no New Years Eve party, it was very quiet here due to all the rain, and it  rained solid for 64 hours.  When the rain stopped we lifted the anchor again, and moved  back to where we originally anchored.

29
Oct
09

1999 – Trinidad – Ven. – Merida

We left Blanquilla Island  on the 2nd January for Margarita island, arriving there in the evening in Juan Grego bay, and the following day we motor sailed to Porlamar & stayed for 2 days, then sailed across to the mainland to Medina bay, a long palm beach and stayed overnight  and then continued to San Francisco Bay, our favourite anchorage, where we stayed 2 days, and had a lovely sail to the Gulf of Paria  to Chaguaramus.

Medina Bay

This time we really enjoyed our stay in Trinidad,  the weather was cool,  but just being here with the friendly locals was wonderful.  We got together with friends who we last saw in St Maarten.  Di and I went for a hike into  the hills.  Dave had to buy some spares, bought 2 sets of shock absorbers for the drive shaft.    Watched Cricket!!!.  We were in Peakes marina for 10 days when there was a bad oil spill in the Chaguaramus bay, so this delayed us for another 2  days, till the oil spill was cleared.   We sailed overnight to Grenada and anchored in Prickly Bay for a week, watched a few  cricket matches on the T.V. in the bar.

04

Prickly Bay-Grenada

08  View to Marina - Budget

Left Grenada on the 29th for Los Testigos islands  and stayed 5 days, then sailed to Margarita again for 3 days.

012  Cubagua Fisher Family

Sailed to Cubagua island,  took Sheena to the beach  and gave some kids on the beach sweats, sugar and coffee.  We sailed back to El Oculto, stayed a couple of days and returned to  Puerto La Cruz on the 9th Feb, to the CMO Marina.

El Oculto Anchorage

El Oculto Beach and Christmas coral

The owner of this marina asked Dave to build a John Boat.  Dave built a plug out of marine ply, then made a mold and finished the first boat, which they tested on the waterway.  It was 24 foot long, but too big to fit on the plane so he had to cut it into 4 sections, and load it on the small plane and fly it to Arekuna in the jungle.

 Di and Les,  also arrived here in CMO and so the parties began.  Had a good party at CMO for Dave’s birthday.

For the Easter weekend  we decided to go to El Oculto with Kevin & Rene on Galadriel.   We had beach barbeques,  and perfect  weather. We all went across the bay by dinghy to the other beach, and climbed the hill.

I started working on the 2nd publication of the business directory.  Spent every morning walking the streets of Puerto La Cruz, Lecheria, the factory area, El morro, and the Marinas.  Back at the boat in the afternoons, and worked on the computer making ads.   We have very good friends here, Noeline & Tony who own a farm just outside Barcelona.  They have sheep and grow delicious oranges and sometimes bought oranges and lamb from them and spent a couple of weekends with them on the farm.

  In July I had the 2nd book published and  distributed. The  end of July, we went to La Boracha island  with Les and Di for a few days.  We just relaxed on the beach and swam, and Sheena swam a long distance from the beach back to the yacht.  We went for a hike up the hill  to the lighthouse,  quite a long, very enjoyable hike, and had some lunch at the light house  and  enjoyed the views.  It was a very hot day, and Dave came to fetch us at the beach.  He had caught enough fish, and so we had another fish barbeque on the beach.

  Another good Party!!!

 

 

  

Ezan’s 21st

On October 5th ,  it was Ezan’s 21st birthday party at CMO and 22 people attended, a fun good party, till  the early hours of the morning.

Rene - Di

A few farewells, friends leaving for the Pacific!!

The end of  October  we decided to go to La Boracha island again, for my birthday, any excuse to get out of the Marina.  Les and Di and Kevin and Rene also went to the island.    Dave & Les went fishing, and Di and I went snorkeling.     Stayed a few days and then returned to the marina.

 Because we have a dog on board, it isn’t always possible for both of us to just up and go travelling inland. Dave & I came to a compromise; I longed for a good hike, so decided to go to Merida, while he would stay in Puerto La Cruz and look after Sheena, our border collie.  Then he would go to the Angel Falls and Canaima, whilst I looked after Sheena.    We had been cruising for 5 years, and I often think of Cape Town and the beautiful mountains.

My plan was to stay up in the Mountains somewhere for at least 4 days, so I packed my large backpack and a day pack with snacks and padded jacket for the freezing bus ride. Feeling apprehensive about travelling alone, I boarded the 2pm Merida Express bus on the 12th Nov. at the terminus in downtown Puerto La Cruz.

001  Bolivar Square, Merida

Bolivar Square - Merida

I arrived in Merida at 7 a.m., and took a taxi to the town centre.  It’s a lovely setting for a university town, founded in 1558, and one of the oldest cities in the country.  Set on the edge of a ridge in the valley between the high peaks of the Andes Mountains, the town is long and narrow.

La Montana Posada - Merida

I walked to avenue 24 and found a very nice Posada (Guest House) La Montana’, where I booked a single room with its own hot shower for 11,000Bs, (15,000 for double), and hired cable TV. for 1,500 Bs.   I wanted to stay in town for 2 days to acclimatize, but I was told the teleférico was closing the following afternoon for maintenance.

003  Cable Car

At 6.30 a.m., carrying my 2 backpacks, I walked down to the cable car station, where a queue had already formed, and paid 7,500 Bs.   With “Maintenance” at the back of my mind, I boarded the cable car at 8:30am.  Merida is at 1,625 meters. above sea level, and the cable car route is 12Km long, stopping at  ‘La Montana’ at (2,436mts.),  ‘La Aguada’ at (3,452mts.), ‘Loma Redonda’ at (4,045mts.), the last station, ‘Pico Espejo’ at (4,765mts.), ‘Pico Bolivar’ on the opposite side is the highest peak at (5,507mts.).  At the altitude of Pico Espejo I thought I would not be able to breathe, but had no problems.  There was some snow and ice, but not as much as I had hoped to see.

Espejo Peak - 4,765 mtrs.

I went back down to the 3rd  station, ‘Loma Redonda’, and there I started the 18 km hike to the village of Los Nevados.  I was very pleased to do the hike in the dry season, the weather was warm and clear all day, and one could see forever.  There were about 10 people doing the hike.  Beautiful flora, (similar to that of Cape Town South Africa),  predominantly the South American flannel flower, “Frailejón”, which is a small, furry bush with thick, silver leaves and a beautiful bright yellow flower.  It’s a prolific grower at this height and is striking against the stony, grey landscape.   Many streams and small waterfalls crossed the path, which was sometimes very difficult, with loose rocks etc.

Lovely Flora!!!

Two hours from the end of the hike, I wished I just had a daypack to carry!!  I arrived in Los Nevados at 5pm: the hike took me 6 hours.  The others took 5 hours, but considering my two backpacks,   not bad!!.

View overlooking Los Nevados

I found accommodation at the Posada ‘Bella Vista’ overlooking a deep gorge with a river flowing down it.  Double bed, dinner and breakfast was 6,000 Bs.  Feeling extremely sore & tired, I was somewhat rejuvenated after a lovely hot shower and went to join the rest of the group for beers.  It rained all night, and was freezing –  fortunately wool blankets were supplied.

Up at 7:30 for breakfast, which was fresh juice, scrambled eggs & tomato, plenty of bread, cream cheese, strawberry jam, & coffee.  I managed a short walk round the place, and just relaxed and enjoyed the magnificent view. I was impressed that people grow crops, including delicious strawberries, on these very steep, terraced slopes at such high altitudes.  Another group of 6 people arrived by Jeep, in time for supper.

 The following morning after breakfast, I walked to the church, then started on the path, leading down to the river  – very steep and quite a long walk.  I crossed over the river, and walked up the other side of the valley, climbing all the way to beautiful views, then back to the river, where I spent a couple of hours –  so peaceful.

 

 Although most people only overnight here at Los Nevados, I spent 3 wonderful days and could have stayed longer, but had to move on.

 The Posada owner’s wife was going to Merida, 63Km., so I arranged to get a ride back with her in a small Jeep for 6,000Bs.  We left at about 8:30am, driving very slowly on the hair raising one-car width road with very steep drop off at the side.

The Jeep

 Back in Merida I returned to the Posada ‘La Montana’ which has it’s own restaurant – I can highly recommend the Trout Fish and Vegetable dish, only 2,500Bs.  They also serve a good breakfast.  The posada is central, within easy walking distance of all facilities.   Or you can catch a bus to the three-story  Principal market, where one can buy fruit and vegetables, and a variety of handcrafts, hammocks etc.

047  Merida - 9 Days

Merida is pleasant to visit and the people are very friendly.   After a lovely relaxing week in Merida and Los Nevados, I had to return to Puerto La Cruz  and dog-sit while Dave went on his own adventure!!!

The John boat was cut in 4 pieces, and flown to Arekuna, and then  Dave flew there for three days to fibreglass the 4 parts together again.

They were taken on a  tour of the area, and  flew over the Angel Falls, and Canaima Park, and walked under a waterfall.

Arakuna Camp

 On Dec.23rd we left the marina and motored to La Boracha Island, with Les & Di, and Joop & Martine.

Les, Joop, Dave, Martine

  Had a lovely evening  with Les & Di,  in La Boracha and the following  evening we sailed to Tortuga.   We anchored in Playa Heradura, and spent Christmas day in TORTUGA.   Les & Di were also going to go to Tortuga, but stayed a few more days in La Boracha and unfortunately he was bitten by a Vampire Bat and had to return to Puerto La Cruz and have injections over 7 days for Rabies.    Joop & Martine arrived on the 29th in Tortuga, and they had a few fish braais with us, and we had a Tai meal on board their boat.   Martine & I collected many shells, whilst  Joop & Dave went spear fishing.   Stayed till the 8th January, and  had a good sail back to the CMO marina.

28
Oct
09

1998 – Ven.-Home-Trinidad

After walking the streets of Puerto La Cruz for 5 months, calling on boat related businesses to place adverts, Nicola and I published a business directory and information about Venezuela, and the marinas etc.

Saturday 27th June we had a book launch at CMO restaurant, snacks and rum punch, and about 80 yachties attended, also a race crowd had a barbecue at the restaurant, this was a very enjoyable, successful evening.

 We printed 3000 copies for distribution in the  marinas etc. over the following year.   An article on the book was printed in  the “Compass Magazine”.

We did some boat maintenance,   sanding wood and varnishing and  in June we went to La Borracha Island for a week, relaxed and enjoyed swimming, and Dave went fishing.

  La Borracha Anchorage!!

We bought and fitted an air-conditioner, makes life more pleasant down below, sleep easier and Sheena loves the air-con,  well she was 12 years old in July and still fit and healthy.

A big supermarket opened in the large shopping complex, down the waterway, so we dinghy down and buy groceries, also cinemas etc, much easier and more pleasant than going down town.

Plaza Mayor Shopping Centre

What a mission to get the boat ready, after being in the marina so long.  Tried to get the Genoa up again, and the sail jammed half-way up, 2 screws were missing on the roler furler again, so Dave replaced the screws and put a Teflon bearing on the top to keep the furler running true.  On the 30th July we left for La Borracha island, overnight there and left at 4a.m. for TORTUGA island.

We anchored in Cayo Herradura and stayed for 10 wonderful days, 5 knot breeze during the day.  Dave spear-fished, so we ate plenty of fish everyday, 1 meal just had shell fish, conch,  & Crayfish.

We then went over to Las Tortuguillas, where  the local fisherman had just netted thousands of yellow tail.  I went ashore with Sheena and walked around the island, and spent some time  at the shallow lagoon.   We returned to Puerto La Cruz, but about 1 hour from La Borracha island, we heard a noise and checked the engine and found plenty of water in the bilge, so we stopped the engine, and we pumped and pumped.  Found the water inlet pipe had come off.

On the 16th October, I flew  from Caracas via France, and arrived in JHB on the 18th October, on my mothers 81st birthday.

Spent 2 weeks with  the family  then flew to Durban, and stayed with Dave’s mom for 4 days,  then flew to Cape Town, and spent the first night at the Gardens Hotel, and a few days with friends. I flew back to JHB for another week at home with our family.    Wonderful 6 weeks  at home.

Simonstown -Town Dock - shops-Waterfront

0268  went home Oct. 98 Simonstown

Simonstown Marina

  Drove along the Cape peninsula

Visit Friends

 Went to visit Kirstenbosch Gardens

Views _ beautiful Cape

We left PLC the 21st December, spent 3 days in the Mochima Park at El Oculto, beautiful, then overnight to Blanquille island, about 110 miles.  We were only going to stay a few days, but ended up spending 10 days there.

 Blanquilla Island _ Venezuela

Blanquilla

 

 

 

SHEENA

23
Oct
09

1997 – Bahamas – Venezuela

We left George Town on the 9th January for St Maarten, and anchored in Simpson Bay.   Once again we saw water in the engine and in the oil so  Dave started stripping the engine, and had to take the engine out. Needed new rings, gasket set and engine mountings, and new batteries.

St Maarten

 Dave fitted everything back again and Pat and Collin came over to help lower the engine back onto the mountings, then Dave spent the weekend fitting the rest of the parts, and also installed an Anti-siphon hose, and fitted a new impeller    Dave bought 2 Deep cycle batteries for the engine starting, and 2 Golf Cart batteries for the lights etc.  We had a few farewells with friends and on the 25th June we left St Maarten for ‘Statia,  over-night there, then to St Kitts and anchored in White House Bay for the night,  then to Montserrat and anchored in Old Road Bay.   The Volcano was still active and William from customs came on board and warned us, should we smell sulphur or hear a rumble and sirens, to leave immediately.  Lovely anchorage and we left the following morning for Guadeloupe, we were out about 2 hrs when the Volcano erupted again, and the island was covered in a haze of ash.  We couldn’t make Guadeloupe, and the cable on the helm quadrant came off, so we dropped the sails and Dave got the cable back in position, and decided to head for Bequia.  The early hours of the morning, the quadrant cable came off again, the key was worn and Dave reset it.  During the afternoon, I couldn’t hold the helm, and Dave tried to hold the boat off the wind, we heard this crash below, and no helm, the pulley on the quadrant was ripped out the side with a chunk of fibre-glass, so had to use the emergency tiller.    026  Pulley on Steering Ripped out - Sailing to Bequia

Still had 50 miles to go to Bequia and it was very hard using a tiller, so we jury rigged and used the winches and reduced sail.

Once again we anchored in Port Elizabeth Bay, and Dave went ashore to buy fibre-glass etc, to do the repairs.  Sheena wasn’t allowed ashore so she just swam off the yacht.

 Stayed here a week, and left on the 6th July for Canouan Island,  then sailed past Mayreau Island, Union, Palm island to Petit St Vincent, a privately owned island.   Lovely beaches, and we walked to the North side and Dave snorkeled and got 3 conch and 3 small fish for Sheena.

We then sailed to  Carriacou,  Tyrrell Bay for 3 days and then to Granada and anchored in Prickly Bay.  ‘Kamytoo’ and a few other yachts we knew were in Mt Hartman Bay.  A Group of 10 yachties hired a taxi to go to Grand Etang and do a day hike.

Very wet- muddy- Hike

We hiked up to Mt Qwa Qwa,  very muddy and slippery and ended back at the Lake  for a wash, as we all looked quite a muddy mess.

 

 

Mud-  And slippery

A Great Day – Hike- & Group

We stayed in Grenada for a month, a lovely island.  A group of us went to the 1st night of the Carnival, and on Monday 11th August we left Granada for Margarita, a constant 15 knot wind and had a wonderful sail, and motored the last 20 miles to Margarita and anchored off Porlamar.

Porlamar Beach Restaurant- Eric, Ellen & Dave

Stocked up on all the good stuff and left for Cubagua,  then to Mochima for 2 days, and back to Puerto La Cruz anchorage for a few days and then to Aqua Vi Marina.

We only just made it back to the marina, as the drive shaft coupling; 3 pins had broken off and the rubber washers had disintegrated again.  Friends returned from Holland with a new cutlass bearing and rubber washers.  Now done 18,000 miles.

We went with ‘Vula’ to La Borracha Island, 6 miles away for 4 lovely days.

 

We decided to go to Trinidad over the season  (Insane idea) Trinidad lies East of Venezuela and the wind direction is East North East.  On the 12th December we left the Marina and went to anchor off Paseo Colon, Dave serviced the winches, and we left on the 14th and motored to El Oculto for  2 nights.   Our next stops were Cubagua and Margarita Island, then  Trinidad, beat our brains out,  took 3 days to get to San Francisco Bay.  We had a wonderful sail to the Gulf of Paria, to Peakes Marina.

Arrived in Trinidad on the 22nd December and went to Port O Spain and bought oil filters, fan belts, material to re‑cover our bunk, and stocked up on foods we could’nt get in Venezuela.  Dave fitted the new filters, then the electric fuel pump wouldn’t work, so he had to rush to town and buy a new pump,  and on Christmas Day we left for San Francisco bay, stayed overnight, and sailed to Los Testigos  and anchored in Playa Real, lovely beaches, and the water was emerald green, and stayed 2 days, then moved to another anchorage, Tamarindo Bay, beautiful, long palm beach, and walked up the sand dunes.

 Dave got 3 Crayfish and went line fishing a couple of times, so we had plenty of fish, and of course Sheena was very happy with all the fish, and  spent 5 wonderful, peaceful days there, then left for Margarita.

 In Margarita we went to our favorite beach restaurant for calamari, stayed 1 day, then sailed  to the West coast of Margarita, a great sail,  and stayed overnight, then left for Puerto La Cruz.

Margarita

Puerto La Cruz - Anchorage

  Sheena Enjoying the sea time!!!

23
Oct
09

1996 – Carriacou – U.S.A -Bahamas

After leaving Carriacou we decided to just spend 2 or 3 days at each island, do some exploring and go to a couple of restaurants.  At this time of the year the wind is always blowing 20 – 30 knots with squalls and lousy seas.

Mayreau Island

Mayreau Island

Bequia Market

Bequia Market

Our first stop was Mayreau, and then we went to Bequia Island, to the Port Elizabeth anchorage.

 018  Bequia   Frangipangi  Hotel-Rest.

 From the dinghy dock we walked on a path, admiring the small restaurants, hotels and shops, ‘gingerbread’ buildings, to the town.

I took the ferry from Bequia to St Vincent as I wanted to see the Botanical Gardens, the oldest garden in the Western Hemisphere.  The ferry took 1 hr to the Capital “Kingstown”.   We left Bequia on the 6th Jan for St Vincent  to overnight in Cumberland Bay, where a ‘boat boy’ named Joseph showed us where to anchor in this very deep bay.  He took our stern line and tied it to a tree on the beach.  Joseph brought us oranges and a coconut, caught fish and cooked it for us.  It turned out to be the best anchorage, and well protected.    We swam ashore and walked along the river which flows into the bay and had a lovely freshwater ‘bath’.

025  Cumberland Bay   Stern Too  Deep water

Dave got up at midnight, swam ashore for the line, and we left at 1a.m for St Lucia, 57 miles, we motored to the north end of St Vincent, and there the wind was blowing 30 knots, an  uncomfortable sail to St Lucia.  We  tacked up the coast to Rodney Bay, and anchored overnight and left the following morning for Martinique, where Sheena would be allowed ashore again.

With 2 Reefs in the main and full Genoa, we enjoyed our first REACH, what a pleasure, and anchored off Fort de France.  Stayed there 2 days, then motored to a bay 3 miles down the coast, to Grand Anse D’Arlet, a picturesque fishing village, and stayed 3 days, then returned to Fort de France, and visited the Botanical Garden and the Fort. 

034  Grand Anse

Grand Anse d’Arlet

St. Pierre – Martinique

We sailed along the coast,  to the Northern end to St Pierre, which lies at the foot of Mt Pelee volcano.  St Pierre was the main town with 30,000 people, but in 1902 the volcano erupted, and everyone was killed, wiping out the entire town.  There was only one survivor who was in prison at the time.  The ruins have been left; and new buildings are just added on to the old structures.

 

On the 15th,   we motor sailed 45 miles, in rain & light wind to Rosseau, Dominica.   The boat-boys once again showed us where to drop anchor and took our stern line.   The following day turned out very windy and raining on and off.  We got a bus to Laudat, and walked to the fresh water lake, 2500ft, and sheltered behind a tool shed for an hour to get out of the wind and rain, and decided it wouldn’t clear, so we walked back down to Trafalgar  town, and then climbed up again to Trafalgar Falls, and once again the rain was pouring down.  It rained for the following 4 days, so much for “Sunny Caribbean’.  We checked-out and sailed to Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth, the 2nd town of Dominica, 18 miles from Roseau.

Next stop was Les Saintes Island, dropped anchor and for the first time we dragged, so we left for Guadeloupe, and stayed overnight, and continued on to Deshais, pronounced (Day-hay), 23 miles, at the north end of Guadeloupe.  A deep, protected bay surrounded by hills. I took Sheena for a walk up the hill to a river, and found a rock pool where we enjoyed a fresh water swim, cold and refreshing.

045  Des Haies  River Sheena

We left on the 25th for St Kitts Island, to Majors Bay, no houses just green hills, and soon after anchoring we were inundated with flies, we sprayed and swatted flies till evening.  There were cattle and goats in the hills.  Up early the following morning, but the flies had already arrived, so we left for Statia Island 28 miles, with full Genoa and 2 reefs in the main, enjoyable sailing and anchored in ‘Oranje Baai’ .

056  Statia  Hike  Sheena

With Sheena, we walked through the small town, up to the extinct Volcano named ‘Quill’, 2,000ft. Steep climb, one can walk down into the crater, which is a lush tropical forest with Tree ferns, giant Elephant Ears.  The ‘Mazinga track’ which we walked on, goes around the top of the crater, where one can see Saba Island, St. Kitts and Nevis Islands in the distance.  We also went to the Oranje Fort built in 1629

30th Jan, we sailed to St Maarten and once we got round to the windward side of Statia, we got the full blast of the 35 knots and gusting.   We had 3 reefs in the main and half Genoa, and the swells were from all directions and very uncomfortable, the deck was awash.  We had a quick very wet sail across to Great Bay anchorage in St Maarten, and 11,000 miles on the clock.

Philipsburg- St  Maarten

 Front Street and Back street is the main tourist shopping areas, jewelry shops, boutiques, restaurants, all duty free shopping.005  Front Street  Philipsburg

St Maarten is also a small island, 37 sq. Miles, divided in two, the Dutch side where we were, and the French side, St Martin.  We went by bus to the lagoon and saw the devastation caused by Hurricane Lewis. We stayed in Great Bay for 23 days, then motored to Simpson Bay and anchored inside the reef.   St Maarten is a party island, and we went to “Lagoonies” a few times as they had live music and a big gathering of other yachties.    They held the Heineken yacht race; there were about 250 yachts anchored and a party every night.  On the 1st March an  Aircraft carrier, ‘The Enterprise’ arrived with 5,000 guys on board.

   There are 3 hotels round Simpson Bay, we were anchored off the ‘Pelican Reef Hotel’ –and every night of the week we heard live music from the hotels.

  On the 15th April the carnival started and went on for 2 weeks, live shows every-night, and we went to Philipsburg to watch the carnival parade down Front Street.

Enjoyed a few evenings with Sharon and

Dave and I went to Marigot, on the French side to Grand Casse, and walked up the highest hill 1,500ft in St Maarten, named Peak Paradise.

    It was a steep climb with good views of St Maarten, also St Barts and Anguilla in the distance.

Dave bought a GPS here as the Satnav only gave about 2 fixes a day.  After spending 4 months in St Maarten, a few farewells,  we left on the 29th May for the Virgins, 82 miles and went to Tortola Island – Sopers Hole, and picked up a mooring.

001  VIRGEN ISLANDS  1996 Sopers Hole Tortola BVI

We went ashore to check-in and left the following morning for Cane Gardens Bay.  Walked up the highest hill, 1700 ft. and  the view was spectacular.

 The B.V.I., is an archipelago of some 40 islands, islets, rocks and cays, and we visited Leverick Bay, Trellis Bay – Beef Island, and Virgin Gorda  the “Baths” where one has to pick up a mooring and only allowed for daytime stops.  Fabulous rock formations and crystal clear pools.

 

Sailed to Cooper Island, Salt Island, where the film ‘The Deep’ was made, then to Norman Island   to the Bite Anchorage and anchored just inside the bay.  In the morning when all the charter boats left we moved to the N.East corner of the bay and stayed 3 days, then sailed back to Road Harbour.  We enjoyed our time in the British Virgin Islands.

Sopers Hole

Road Town -Squall

Botanical Gardens

Downwind sail to St John island U.S. Virgins, to Cruz Bay, a small crowded bay, so we went back up the coast to Caneel Bay & anchored off  Honeymoon beach, very pretty & peaceful.   The following morning we went by dinghy to Cruz Bay to check -in and walked round the town.

Cruz Bay – St John

We went to Trunk Bay by dinghy where we snorkeled along the underwater trail.  Most of St John is a protected nature reserve.

Loved the St John Island

We left St John on Saturday 2nd June, with full main & Genoa, in a light east wind.   The first 7 days we had lovely clear very hot days.  We changed our night shift, I did from 7-12 and Dave from 12-6, this seemed to work well.  We dropped the main, left the No. 2 Genoa up and then also put the No. 1 Genoa out, flat sea and the boat sailed well.  The 3rd day out we caught about a 15lb Dorado, we poured a little alcohol on the fish and this kills the fish and makes it easier to get on board  and not so messy, so we had delicious fish for  days and Sheena had her fair share.

003  Dorado

Sheena doesn’t enjoy moving especially from anchorage to anchorage, but once she realizes it’s a long trip, by the 2nd day she settles into a routine.  A school of Dolphins swam with us for about an hour; Sheena was rather tired after running up and down the deck barking at them.   On the 8th day at 4 in the morning the wind started blowing, we had no sail up and within a short time the wind was blowing about 30 knots, just seemed to increase.    We only had a chart for Savannah where we planned to go, but these winds weren’t playing the game.   After a squall, no wind, sat and waited, sails flapping & then the next squall, the main track block broke, and once again the boom went walk about, the boom was tied down one side, but still got a pendulum effect and Dave repaired the block.  The sea was a mess and big swells, about 5mtr & we were surfing down at 10-12 knots.

010  Many Squalls

Dave now plotted a course for Myrtle Beach. We heard Hurricane Bertha was on the way to St Maarten and Virgin Islands.  The radio in the cockpit gave updates of weather, and we still had 120 miles to go. On the 15th day the bolt on the main block sheared off and the boom went swinging again, Dave managed to get a rope through the shackle and tied it off and then got another thick rope and tied the boom on the opposite side as well. By now we were pushed further north and Dave plotted a course for Chesapeake Bay.  The afternoon of the 16th day we saw the first marker buoy to the entrance of the channel, no wind and very hot and hazy, the temperature was in the 90’s and the humidity was also about 90%.  I don’t know how Columbus discovered America as the land is so flat,  he must have run aground.   By this stage we both said we had, had enough of sailing.!!!

013  Air Craft Carrier

From the entrance we were welcomed by hundreds of flies and horse flies so the swatter worked overtime.  With no charts, we continued up the channel, ships going up and down and an aircraft carrier came past.  We motored to marker no.16 and Dave called the Coast guard,  and they asked where we were from and our last port of call, half hour later they came back and asked more questions and Dave said we had a chart for Savannah, but the bad weather pushed us north and we didn’t have charts for the Chesapeake, and all we wanted to know was where we could anchor.   It was about 3.30pm and they said they would send a Coast Guard vessel to us, and half hour later one arrived with five people on board, very serious looking, as they had just returned form a drug check and had a Dalmatian dog on board.   When they saw Sheena they were all smiles and the captain came back to us and said, “as long as we can keep the dogs apart everything should be O.K”.   We followed them for about 15 miles, and they showed us where to anchor, between a lot of crab pots opposite the Willoughby Marina.

 

0004   Willowby - Hampton Hotel

 0003  Sunset - Bertha Hurricane on way

Hurricane Bertha was now over the Carolinas and heading north.  A warning was sent out for the East Coast to Virginia.   The following day we called the Coast Guard to contact customs for us, and they told us to go alongside in the marina.   After all the formalities were over, Dave got a lift downtown; about 15 miles and bought a chart kit for the Chesapeake, also bought a cruising permit for the East Coast of America, valid for 1 year. Then to the supermarket, we bought huge T-bones, nice after canned boat food.

The yachties here were all preparing to go up the James River.   The following morning we got fuel, and left for the James River, and  just before the channel we ran aground, we reversed and got under way again.   The James River is about 5 miles wide and we motored 40 miles up the river and anchored off Hog Island, at the Nuclear Power station.  There was only 1 other yacht anchored there.  Hurricane Bertha was off Cape Fear and the following day by 6pm, the wind started blowing and increased to about 60 knots with plenty of rain.  We had tied everything down on deck etc, and the river was quite wild.  The following morning it was still blowing 30 knots and 6ft swells,  spray over the deck,  our cockpit radio got wet so that was the end of music outside and I really missed it.  It blew for the following 2 days, very hot and hazy again, so we took Sheena to the small beach, no Jelly fish in river, (one can’t swim in the Chesapeake in the summer as there are hundreds of Jelly fish) and the water was about 30deg. because of the nuclear plant.  We motored further up the James River to Jamestown, and anchored just off the channel and Dave went ashore to buy some fresh food, and then went back to the nuclear anchorage.  Wednesday we headed back to Willoughby, passed the ship graveyard, about 100 ships also a big Navel Ship building area.

James River – Ships Graveyard

We stayed a day in Willoughby where Dave tried to drill the old bolt out of the main block, as it had sheared off.  He drilled new holes and fitted new bolts.   On the 21st we left for the York River, maneuvered around Crab pots to the main shipping channel.

   We motored to York Town and anchored off the Battlefield.  There was a bad vibration in the cockpit and we were quite worried, had to reduce speed to 1,500 revs.  Dave loosened the coupling on the drive shaft and found the rubber shock-absorbers were totally worn away and one of 4 lugs had sheared off.   Dave took me to York Town and he went across the river to Gloucester Point marina and chandlery.  I walked to the visitors centre, and the battlefield.    Dave on the other side couldn’t get spares so he made some temporary rubber washers and put it together again.

 

               We walked round York Town, went to Nelson House, (1738-89) Thomas Nelson Jnr was one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.   The grandfather came from England in 1705.

The battlefield is where the British were defeated after which the negotiations at this historic site led to the end of the 1781 siege of Yorktown and the end of the  American Revolution.

The 24th we left for Piankatank River, 28 miles, to Fishing Bay, and the  following day motored to Wicomico River, to Reedville 18 miles,  past a fish factory, a very smelly town where we met friends we last saw in St Eustatius.

0017

Calvert – Solomons

On the 27th we left early for Patuxent River -Solomons Island 35 miles, then to Galesville 28 miles, past the Potomac River and anchored near the yacht club. They welcomed us, free shower, use of the swimming pool, and free dockage, but we stayed at anchor.  They gave us their yacht club burgee and we gave them our False Bay Burgee.  We stayed a couple of days, then motored 15 miles to Annapolis, to Spa Creek and anchored opposite the Truxton Park.

Annapolis!!

 

We walked Sheena round the park everyday, 8 acres of trees.  Went to explore the town of Annapolis, and the Naval Academy, which is on 338 acres.

 We visited the Museum, has the world’s finest collection of warship models from the 17th – 19th century. The craftsmanship is outstanding; Dave could’ve spent the day there.  Some of the hundreds of models are displayed in antique cases built for exhibition.  The bone models displayed were carved from the bones of beef rations allowed to French prisoners of war in England, absolutely beautiful.

 On Monday evenings, about 20 yachties got together for a barbeque.   About 14 of us walked to Quiet Water Park, where they had a Dixieland Jazz band and country music evening.  We drove to Washington, 60 miles, to the Mall area where we visited the Washington Monument which was opened in 1888, an elevator takes one up to the 500 foot level with a good view of Washington, then we walked to the White House, and  to the National Museum of American History, and the U.S. Capitol building.

After lunch we went to the National Museum of Natural History, and the Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum.

The Capitol Building and views to the Mall!!

Thank goodness Hurricane Edward went North out to sea, and Hurricane Fran, brought some wind and heavy rains.  A family here invited us to a barbeque, and as a starter we had Chesapeake blue Crabs, (1st time) chicken barbeque, and Blueberries and ice cream.   The weather was starting to get cold, but we wanted to go to the boat show which started on 10th October – 14th.   We also went by train to Baltimore, a beautiful warm day with clear blue sky, and walked round the waterfront, and downtown to a large market.

 On the 16th, we had a pleasant surprise, a yacht anchored a short distance from us, was Sue and Ulli on ‘Misty Pearl’ who left Simonstown 5 years ago, they had now just returned from Maine and New York, and were also going down to Florida.  The locals call it (‘The Snowbird Run).  We started to get the boat ready, Dave checked batteries, engine etc. found screws out of roller furler again.  We bought a second anchor, a 35lb Danforth and on the 23rd October we left Spa Creek, and picked up a mooring at the waterfront and Sue and Ullie did the same and we went to Pussers Pub for happy hour, had a great evening.  The following few days we did overnight stops on the Eastern shore off St James Island, Solomon’s, Patuxent River, to Little Wicomico River,  Piankatank river Fishing bay, Poquoson River a very rolly anchorage.  Wind swung to the North and sailed to Willoughby and spent 2 nights there, did laundry, groceries and filled the tanks.   On 31st October, we went down the Elizabeth River, passed Hampton Roads, Portsmouth and anchored off Norfolk, a very busy shipping area.  We walked round the waterfront, and stayed 2 nights.   On 3rd Nov. started  the Intercoastal Waterway to Beaufort, 200 miles.  5 bridges, 1 fixed bridge 65’, to a Loch, and a short distance to Great Bridge Town, to a long dock where we could stay for 24 hours.

034  Great Bridge - Stay alongside overnight  Misty Pearl  Sue & Ulie

Great Bridge

040  Swing Bridge

Sue went with us to buy some groceries, they then continued and we stayed overnight.  Following morning we had ice on the deck -6deg.    This part of the I.C.W. with overnight stops at Pungo Ferry, and Broad Creek, consisted of narrow channels, and about 10 swing and lift bridges.

 Had to continually watch markers and stay in the middle of the channel or run aground, quite tiring and boring.   Then we crossed the Albermarle Sound, to the Alligator River 37 miles, and went to the marina for fuel then 40 miles to the Pungo River, which starts with the Alligator canal, 90′ wide and 20 Miles long, and anchored 2.5miles up the Pungo River and stayed 3 nights.  A cold front came over blowing 35 knots, and thunderstorms.

Intercoastal Waterway

036  Run Aground at Marker

Ran Aground – Marker

 Leaving the river I went too close to the marker and ran aground.  We crossed the Pamlico Sound to the South River 41 miles, then to Beaufort, 24 miles, and going down the channel to the town anchorage, we ran well aground.  The yacht dug in a lay over, but we managed to reverse off and now qualified with 5 groundings.
037  Beaufort North Carolina -  Kamytoo Nov. 1996

Beaufort – North Carolina

The town anchorage was 4m deep, the channel had to be kept clear for fishing boats, so not much space as the boats swung with strong current, and used our second anchor for the first time.

On Nov. 13, there was a 10-15 knot N.East wind, and we left for Palm Beach Florida 550 miles, nice sailing conditions.  Overnight, the wind increased to 20-25knots, and by the following night 35 – 45knots, 16ft swells plus, very close and steep, uncomfortable…  We tried to stay 40 miles offshore, just outside the gulf stream, the waves were breaking on deck, and Dave was tired as he was at the helm for hours, so he furled the small piece of Genoa, and put out a sea anchor.  We were pooped 8 times, and one wave snapped the cockpit table in half.    This front lasted about 48hrs and when the winds dropped to about 30 knots we continued sailing,  the wind swung to the S.West and for the following 48hrs we had wonderful sailing conditions.   We arrived off the entrance to Palm Beach at 7pm, quite a narrow and rough entrance, and anchored off Peanut Island.

044  Clear Bridge

The following day we motored 3 miles down the channel to another anchorage in Old Port Cove, Lake Worth, where we stayed for 2 weeks.

There were about 30 yachts waiting for  a weather  window.  We left Lake Worth with 5 other yachts, in a 15 knots South Wester for Grand Bahamas, 85 miles.   Sailed to Lucayen Marina, swimming pool, hot showers, and laundry.  Customs and immigration were contacted and came on board, very friendly people.  Dave noticed the toggle on the forestay was split on one side, and the yacht “Shannandoa” had a spare toggle which he gave to Dave.

001  Bahamas Entrance to Lakayan Marina - Grand Bahama

The Bahamas consists of some 700 islands and 2500 small islets and cays.   The marina had a ferry service to cross the waterway to the town of Lucayan, where we walked round the shops, and  went by bus to Freeport, to the international Market.

002  Lakayan Market - Bahamas - Grand Bahama

Lakayan Market

 
006  Freeport Market

Freeport Market

 

We stayed 4 days, and headed for the Berry Islands, 70 miles.   We anchored in Great Stirrup Cay, off Goat Island and stayed 2 nights, and then went 20 miles to Cabbage Cay, and 38 miles to Nassau.  We walked over the 70ft bridge to Paradise Island, to the Atlantis Hotel and Casino, a fabulous complex.  There are  waterfalls, underground grottos, lagoons, salt and freshwater swimming pools, and an aquarium in a glass tunnel walkway.

010  At Anchor - Nassau Bahamas

Nassau

 We spent 9 days in Nassau, and left on 23 Dec. for the Exuma Cays, with  “Ectasea”  Ron and Tara, and Kamytoo’  Wendy and  Loran.  There was a very strong current going East under the bridge to the start of the Exuma Cays, had to dodge coral reefs, doing 7-8 knots, but with clear skies we could easily see the coral heads and anchored off Highbourne Cay, a private island, lovely long beach and crystal clear water.  Following day we left for Hawksbill Cay. 

 

After a lovely evening with our friends, they left the following day and we had this uninhabited island to ourselves and stayed another 2 days, then left for Staniel Cay, 32 miles in wonderful day sailing conditions.  Staniel Cay has 2 lovely bays, the one off the town was too shallow for us to anchor in, also this was where the movie ‘Thunderball’ was filmed. The cave in the movie was a good snorkelling spot, as  the locals fed the fish so there was an abundance of fish.  Stayed 4 days then went to Galliot Cut, then 35 miles to Great Exuma, off the entrance we motored 8 miles according to way points to the anchorage off George Town.

022  Hamburger Beach  George Town

Hamburger Beach – Georgetown

 Made a few trips  ashore to fill our water tanks, then went across the channel, and anchored off Hamburger Beach.  We spent 5 days there, had perfect weather, climbed the hill and went over to the North side and walked along the beach which was a few miles long, Sheena really enjoyed it here, lots of exercise.   Did some hand line fishing.

Sheena helping with helming!!!

//

13
Oct
09

1995 – Brazil-Venezuela

We wanted to leave Fortaleza on the 14th, but the engine wouldn’t start, as we left the fridge on for 2 days which drained the batteries. We borrowed some batteries as our Generator also wouldn’t start, but to no avail.  Dave looked at the pistons, and found salt water in the engine.  It took 2 days to dry and clean the engine.  By Friday the engine still wouldn’t start, we then borrowed a big battery charger from a French yacht.   Saturday morning the engine started and ran for 2 hours.  Dave drained the oil, which had some water in, and put new oil in and ran the engine for a couple of hours again. That night we went to the hotel for another buffet dinner, and had 3 different courses and 2 servings of the puddings, and asked the waiter for a doggy bag, which is very unusual here in Brazil.   The waiter had obviously seen Sheena, as our boat was right in front of the hotel, and he brought a large box full of left-overs,  fillet steaks, pork chops and chicken.  She really ate well at sea, while we had ‘canned food’.   We left on the 14th March in 15-20 knot winds, late afternoon squalls and plenty of rain, and lightning.   We had 20-30knots of wind crossing the equator doing 6-8knots.  We sailed most of the way with full Genoa and 2 reefs in the main.

Dorada - caught while crossing Equator

Dorada - caught while crossing Equator

Dave didn’t have a chart for the Iles du Salut area, so we used the map in the book “Papillon” and motored to Royale Island.  The local Gendarmes visited us, checked us in and then told us that  we would have to leave the next day by 3 p.m. and go to Kourou, which is on the mainland of French Guiana, as they were going to launch a satellite.

On the island all the trees were cut down so the prisoners couldn’t build boats to escape, and since then various fruit trees, guavas, bananas, papaws, mangos, limes, granadillas and coconut trees were planted, and we picked a lot of fruit.  There are monkeys, agoutis, iguanas and green and red parrots.

  The following  morning we took Sheena ashore and walked round the island.  We found a pool which the prisoners built, and together with Sheena had a swim.

By the time we got back to the yacht, the others had already left for Kourou, so we quickly got everything stowed and tried to lift the anchor.  When in a hurry something always goes wrong, our anchor had hooked onto a huge fisherman anchor, which we had to lift off our anchor with the windlass, and then try and untangle the two, it took quite a while.      It was 14 miles to the river entrance, and on entering the channel the engine cut out, dirty fuel filter which Dave replaced in record time.   The river mouth is really wild, big swells, and a 4 knot current.  We motored up the river for about a mile to the anchorage and invited Johan and Petra for a barbeque and we watched the satellite launch at 9:00 p.m., lot of noise and quite amazing.  Kourou is the home of Guiana Space Centre, for the telecommunications, weather research, direct T.V. broadcasting and space research.

We went ashore the next day, to buy groceries, we bought lamb from New Zealand.   After shopping  we  went alongside the fuel dock, took on fuel and water and sailed back to the islands.   We went to the Museum on the Island and read the information about Papillon and his escape from Devils Island.

  On the 5th we set sail for Tobago.  A lot of people have asked what its like at sea; well the yacht is in the centre of a perfect 360 deg.  circle day in and day out, as the yacht moves the circle stays, its quite incredible, ocean sailing is wonderful, relaxing and peaceful.

At last the long distance sailing is over, it will only be a day or 2 sailing, from island to island.  We have now sailed 8,500 miles.  1 day out of Tobago we got radio Barbados and Sheena started barking and looked at the radio, she probably thought we were back home.  So far we had Portuguese radio, French then Dutch off Surinam, and now English.

On the 9th April we dropped anchor in Scarborough, Tobago.    Sheena was not allowed on shore here, so we left the 14th and sailed round to Mt Irvine Bay.  The next bay to Mt Irvine was completely deserted so we took Sheena there a couple of times.

Mt Irvine Bay -

 We spent 10 days here, hired a car for a day tour of the island, then sailed back to Scarborough to check-out; it took 4 hours to Mt. Irvine & 12 hours back to Scarborough, against current and wind.   On route we caught a huge Dorado and dropped it in the dinghy which was on the stern.

Arrived in Scarborough anchorage at 10 pm, and Dave still had to clean the Dorado.   We set sail the following afternoon for Trinidad.

Well our planned stay of 2 weeks in Trinidad turned into 48 days.   Went to Peake Marine to haul the boat and do a bottom job.  The first 5 days on the hard were free.  We ate out a lot in Trinidad, good food and rather cheap.  On the 5th May we hauled the yacht where we met a local named Kennedy and he offered to re-spray our yacht at a very good price.  The hull was dark blue and teak decks, which made the boat very hot down below, so Dave asked Ken to respray the hull white.

It took him 11 days, sanding down to gell coat, doing undercoat, and spraying 2 coats of off-white paint.   Dave had a few repairs to do, replace the stuffing box, clean the head sea cocks, re-tune the rigging, go up the mast and check everything.   I repainted the cockpit and re-varnished the wood work. 

Wonderful to be back in the water.

We hired a car with friends we met in Trinidad & drove to the North side to Maracas beach, the mountains were lush and beautiful.

Mango trees growing alongside the road, we stopped and picked some.  Drove to the Assa Wright Nature Centre, also stopped at a view site where 2 West Indians played guitars and sang, making up versus referring to us, and they were excellent.

 An elderly lady who was living on board her 60’’Trimaran, on the hard, mentioned she was looking for a skipper to take the boat to Venezuela.  On the 2nd June, the 60’ Trimaran “Charley Horse” went back in the water, and Dave had to test everything, and then went out to anchor.  The following day, they left for Venezuela, and after delivering the boat to Venezuela,  Dave flew back to Trinidad.

On Wednesday 14th June, we left for Venezuela with quite a farewell from the yachties.      We sailed 14 miles to San Francisco Bay, a very beautiful anchorage.

San Francisco Bay

We left early Thursday morning in good wind, doing 6-8 knots headed for Puerto la Cruz,Venezuela which is 190 miles from Trinidad, so sailed over night, had light wind to zero and arrived off Puerto La Cruz in the late afternoon.  On Saturday morning we motored to the canal entrance, where all the marinas are.  A  man made canal and on both sides are hundreds of houses, 5 marinas, hotels etc.  We were headed for the last Marina, Mare Mares where “Charley Horse’ was.  Dave was doing 5 knots along the canal when we hit a rock, the yacht came to a sudden halt, mast shaking, we checked below and continued to the marina.  Once we were all tied up in the marina Dave dove in the water and checked the damage, luckily just a few scratches on the keel.  The rock was at 6 foot and we draw 6′.6.

Mare Mares Marina is  luxurious, an enormous swimming pool with a swing bridge over, tennis courts, gym, restaurants and a bus service to Puerto La Cruz.  Beautiful gardens surrounded the hotel and a golf course where I walked Sheena.

On Monday 3rd July we left for Americo Vespucio Marina, where we hauled to check the damage and do repairs.  Dave had to grind the area, and some water dripped out, so left it for a few days to dry and then filled it.  We bought an   Avon  inflatable  dinghy and an  8 hp. Outboard and Sheena just loved going in the dinghy!!

In Venezuela water was more expensive than diesel.   We left the anchorage on the 16th July for  ‘Mochima National Park’ our first stop was ‘El Oculto’ (Hidden Bay), a beautiful anchorage, no wind and very quiet and peaceful.  Following morning we motored to ‘Mochima’ a long and deep bay which extends 4 miles into the surrounding hills.

There are frequent thundershowers here, so the hills are lush, ‘El Oculto’ only about 10 miles away was like a desert, small bushes, red soil and cactus plants.  We anchored near the fishing village, and in the evenings we saw and heard hundreds of small green parrots.

The water temperature was about 28 deg., no wind and the heat, one never cools down.  The following morning we got a lift in a local bus, to the top of the hill to admire the beautiful views, and walked back down.

 We then motored to Bahia Manare, a big bay and a few fishermen live there, a lovely beach with a spectacular reddish cliff on the northern shore.

Bahia Manare

We planned to relax here for a few days, unfortunately Dave said the windlass was making a strange noise, so he striped it and found the magnets had broken due to fatigue, then the engine wouldn’t start, we had water in the diesel again, so Dave changed the filters and the engine was O.K.   He took a couple of hours to try and glue the magnets together again, (not easy as they kept moving), after 2 days Dave repaired the windlass, then he checked the fuel gauge, which showed ¾ when we left Puerto La Cruz, now it showed nearly empty, so we went to Cumana, about 15 miles, which is the capital of the State of Sucre. A  Commercial and industrial town, and went to the Marina and filled up.  We then went back to ‘El Oculto’ and spent a week there, good snorkeling, and most of the time we were the only yacht there.

 We then went to ‘Golfo de Sante Fe’ , 5 miles long and 1-2 miles wide, plenty of dolphins in this area and Sheena goes crazy when she sees them. We stayed overnight then went to “Chimana Segunda’.  The restaurant owner had a pet Boa Constrictor and a few Iguanas.

 Stayed 2 days and then went back to Puerto La Cruz, bought groceries and left the following morning for Tortuga islands.

046  Leaving Puerto La Cruz

Leaving Puerto La Cruz

No wind and had to motor-sail all day, and 5 miles from Tortuga, the wind got up, gusting to 30 knots, it was already 6pm and we were hoping to anchor in daylight, so headed for ‘Las Tortuguillas’ (the little Turtle Islands’ and anchored at about 7pm.  It was windy all night and the next day it poured with rain.  We stayed another day but found the anchorage too rolly and too many insects, so we moved to “Cayo Herradura’ (Horseshoe Cay) which  is a well protected anchorage.

Spent the days swimming, snorkeling on the reefs and reading, a bit boring, but we weren’t complaining,  had to sit out the hurricane season.   Sheena got a lot of excercise, swimming and running on the beach.

Sheena - After Action - Satisfaction!!!

We went to Los Palanquinos for a day, then to ‘Playa Caldera’, on the main Tortuga Island.  This island is about 15 miles long and 10 miles at the widest part, and has a rough airstrip, and a lovely lagoon.  We stayed 2 days, too many insects, and went back to ‘Herradura’.  On the 19th we left with friends for Puerto La Cruz, 60 miles, they motor-sailed and we beat our way back, stocked up again, fuel & water and on the 30th Aug, we checked out of Puerto La Cruz and went to “Chimana Segunda’.  We were just over 2 months in Venezuela and decided not to pay for an extra month, but take a month and island hop, back to Trinidad.  The next day we returned to ‘El Oculto’, and anchored behind ‘Fliver’ who had just returned from diving and invited us over for a fish barbeque, bread and wine, really delicious and well timed.

Dave sometimes caught only a couple of small fish and we boiled them for Sheena.  We stayed for 1 week in this beautiful and peaceful anchorage.

          A Norwegian yacht ’La Boheme’ anchored near us, Erik and Ellen and a beautiful black cat called ‘Puccini’.  We left for Mochima, “La Boheme” ahead of us, and went ashore to the restaurant, made of bamboo and palm leaves, and had the best meal in Venezuela, Calamari, chips and salad for $3.  We sailed to “Cubagua Island’, about 30 miles, La Boheme motor-sailed, and we beat and tacked.  Cubagua is pretty, sandy beaches and dry hills.  There were large areas of pearls here, but after heavy exploitation the supply is now nil, a tidal wave and earthquake destroyed part of the island and is now uninhabited save for a small fishing village.  Stayed overnight, and then to Coche island where the wind always blows about 25 knots down this channel and after 3 hours of beating we went into Coche and anchored behind ‘La Boheme’.  Coche also has dry red hills, covered in  scrub and cactus plants.

 The following day we motor sailed to Margarita Island, and enjoyed 6 days anchored off Porlamar.  There are two large cities here, Pampatar and Porlamar.  This is a duty free island, Porlamar is the ‘new’ city, very modern, and smart fashionable shops.  There were about 60 yachts anchored here.  Hurricane Marilyn was on its way, and they warned us that 45k winds could be expected.    Ellen & I went shopping and we went to ‘Cheers’ restaurant for an Italian salad and beer, whilst there, the wind arrived and blew 40k for about an hour and heavy rains.

Ellen - Beach Bar- Porlamar

We left ‘Cheers’ in the pouring rain,  and got a taxi and then had to walk a short distance to the beach restaurant as the roads were flooded.  We each had a gin and tonic,  and when the rain stopped we got a lift back to the yachts with a local on a Jet Ski.  Dave said a few yachts had dragged anchor.

Margarita Island - Philip & Rida

Leaving Porlamar - Margarita Island

Leaving Porlamar - Margarita Island

On the 16th we left for San Francisco Bay, 170 miles, started with good wind, a reach, but the wind swung, then no wind, and motor sailed to San Francisco Bay, and arrived the following afternoon,

We stayed 1 week, absolute paradise, it is an untouched jungle – rain forest and a few fisherman came here and anchored over night. The rain poured nearly everyday for a few hours.  There are 2 waterfalls and we filled our water-tanks and showered.  I climbed a short distance up the gorge, and found orange trees, guavas, giant anthirinums, and saw many butterflies.    We motor sailed to Chaguaramas and anchored, many boats at anchor, the Peake storage area was full, the hard was full and there was a waiting list.  We booked to haul the boat again, but had to wait  for 2 weeks.

Dave wanted to check the Keel, we also used S.A. antifouling which was for cold water, so we had quite a lot of barnacles after only 3 months in the water.    It was very hot on the hard, 40 deg. below deck.  They had opened a Mini Mart at Peaks, so we gave them our grocery list and they bought everything and shrink wrapped, and delivered to the yacht.

On the 1st Nov. we went back in the water and a group of us went over by ferry to the nearby Fantasy Island, for an East Indian curry.

Ferry To Fantacy Island

Trinidad

Rida, Philip, Gary & Murial

The first month anchored here was quite nice, but going on 2 months, we were fed up.  It is just convenient, showers, and mini mart and ice, every other day, so we moved to Scotland Bay, a nice sheltered bay, no houses, just rain forest and a path through the forest, where we walked one day.  Dave went up the roller furler and fitted screws which we were able to get here in Trinidad and used lock-tite.  We spent 9 days in Scotland Bay.

Scotland Bay - Trinidad

Scotland Bay - Trinidad

Back in Chaguaramas Bay we filled our water & fuel tanks and left on the 14th  for Grenada, 90 miles and went to anchor in Prickly Bay, a very pretty bay.   To get a bus to St. George’s, the capital, we had to walk 3 km. St. George’s is a very old town, with Pointsettias and bougainvillea in flower.    After many wars, Grenada became British in 1783 and independent in 1974, and in 1979, an attempt to make it a communist state, the Americans intervened and the then Prime Minister Bishop and his cabinet were executed.  We walked to the Fort where this took place, it was half in ruin.  Lovely view over St George and harbour from the Fort.

Fort St George - Grenada

Fort St George - Grenada

Grenada’s highest mountain is 2756 ft., rain forest; it is the only island that produces spices, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, mace, cocoa, and bananas. We went to the Concorde Falls, and Jimmy, a local guide,  named all the trees, and fruit growing along the path, he picked 2 Cocoa pods for us, the inside is white and sweet.  The pips are removed and dried in the sun to different stages for light or dark chocolate, the red around the Nutmeg is mace, Sorrel is used for beer, and he showed us many varieties of Bananas, there were 8, the plantain can only be cooked, sweet and delicious, I also tried the Custard Apple.  Dasheen, a root plant, the Rose Plum looks like a big turnip, also sweet.  He showed us the clove bush, he was very informative.  We got another bus to Gouyane, a small town, then to Sauteurs, the Northern tip where the Carib Indians chose to commit suicide by jumping off the vertical 100 ft. Cliff into the sea, rather than surrender to the French in 1651.   Then another bus to Grand Etang Lake in the central mountain range, 2000 ft., it is an old Volcano crater, and National Park.  These mini bus rides are inexpensive, but it’s like a roller coaster ride, loud music and fast.

Grenada

Every Friday the restaurant had a steelband. We stayed in Prickly Bay for 13 days and on the 28th, we left for Carriacou Island, the sister island to Grenada and the start of the Grenadines, and anchored in Hillsborough.  The bay was unprotected and rolly.  We went to a restaurant for a roti and the young barman came and sat with us, and played 2 songs on his guitar which he wrote and sang.

11
Oct
09

1995 – St Helena to Salvador

After 3  days, we were in the trade wind conditions, flat seas and long swells, more comfortable, the winds became light and variable, South-South East – East 5-10knots, then a couple of days of light to zero wind, cool-off in the Atlantic, the sea was so clear and warm.  Trade wind conditions are very frustrating, and the more west we went the hotter it became,   luckily we had canvas over the cockpit area.

 We had a lure in the water for most of the way, but didn’t catch fish,  4 days from Salvador, a school of fish were swimming under our boat, and then 6-8 Dorado fish arrived, but we caught a 10 pound barracuda, which was supper for 2 nights and for Sheena.

It took 21 days to arrive in Salvador, 2,400 miles.  10 miles off Salvador the wind got up to about 20 knots and with full main and Genoa, we sailed  into the bay area doing 8 knots, the best part of the trip.  We motored to the yacht club Bahia and picked up a mooring.  Lovely club, half size Olympic pool, restaurant, showers and 24-hour ferry service.

The mooring was free for 10 days. First impressions of Salvador: hundreds of high rise blocks of flats and hotels, shops underneath, very loud Portuguese music and too many people.

Salvador Bahia

Itaparica

Our friends who left S.A. two weeks before us were over on the Islands waiting for a GPS to be sent over, and also waiting for us to arrive. (our old Satnav was still working).  We stayed a few days in Bahia, after checking in etc. and exploring the city, we went to get fuel and water and motored across the bay to the islands of Itaparica  and spent 2 weeks there with our friends on “Erica Jo”.

Saraiba island - sheena

Saraiba island - sheena

We took Sheena to the beach a few hundred metres away, she was very happy with all the swimming and going to the beach everyday, but it was hard work for Dave to row, as one had to fight the wind and current.  On the 10th we decided to go to Saraiba Island about 2hrs away, a privately owned island.  After a few days there we left for Salvador, back to the Bahia Yacht club and anchored for 2 nights, and then left with “Erica-Jo”,  for Recife.

 We had to beat most of the way with good winds, but also hours with no wind.

We arrived off Recife during the night, dodging fishing boats and tankers and in the morning we continued to the Marina, only to run aground on a sand bank, the second marker was broken off.   We waited for high tide and continued to the so called marina, which was a bit delapidated.  The facilities were excellent, showers, swimming pool and restaurant.

We walked along the beach front, where the carnival was going on, thousands of people, big trucks with a live band on top, inside the truck were about 40 enormous speakers, and moving very slowly down the road, with people dancing in front and behind the truck.  The band music was so loud,  and they sure know how to party.

 The following night we took a bus to another part of Recife with a different carnival atmosphere, called Olinda, also thousands of people. Dave wasn’t feeling well, he had pain in all his joints, so we decided to go back.  Dave had food poisoning, but was fine the next day.  On Wednesday, the last day of the carnival, all businesses  were closed, including the marina club, so Dave & I had the pool to ourselves, where we spent a few hours relaxing.

We decided to leave for Fortaleza, had strong winds and did 6-8 knots.  There is a shelf on this coast which drops from 5,000 metres to 10 meters, so the sea was very uncomfortable. Downwind to Fortaleza, and  Rock and roll again.  We approached Fortaleza and to find the Marina approach was quite difficult, it too was not marked.  There is a wreck in front of the entrance, we were told later, that we should have gone in front of the wreck, but we took a wide berth, and went in behind the wreck and they were surprised that we didn’t run aground on a sand bank.  The Marina has a long row of floating jetties where we tied up,  a massive luxury hotel, which looked like a passenger ship from a distance, also a pool, restaurants and shower facilities, and 24 hour security.  The Marina was a 5 minute walk from the city.  Fortaleza is a shopper’s paradise for lace work, leather, wood carving, and hammocks.

 One evening we took the hotel mini bus to the beach front with a Swedish couple, Johan & Petra.   Fortaleza is a night city; there are hundreds of stalls on the beach front, where one can buy lace work or T-shirts etc.  Also numerous bars, and thatch roof restaurants.  We met Gladstone, a local marine lawyer, who spoke English and he  offered to show us a bit of Fortaleza.  So once again the 4 of us went with Gladstone to Cumbuco, which has high sand dunes, lagoons, Palm groves, one can hire a beach buggy to ride the dunes.  He drove us to Maranguape, which is a mountain just outside Fortaleza, we all decided to climb the mountain, and there is a small lake on top.  It was our first jungle hike, which we had to fight our way through.  We saw a few Tarantulas’, mosquitoes ate us alive, and we climbed for about 2 1/2 hours.  This was a wonderful experience; we cooled off in the lovely mountain water.

On Friday and Saturday evenings, they had a band playing at the poolside.  We were glad that we went to Fortaleza, had a wonderful time there.

Fortaleza Cathedral  –                     Johan & Petra

 

10
Oct
09

1994 – Port Owen – St Helena Is

We left Port Owen Marina on Monday the 7th November, in a  light Southerly wind and hoisted the main in St Helena Bay.  Soon after the wind swung to the North, so we motored for a few hours. We tried to unfurl the Genoa (New Roller Furler)  and  it jammed, we un-jammed it with the windless handle, and off we went on a beat doing 7-8 knots.  The generator fuel was leaking and backed into the boat, so the smell below was not too healthy and I was soon feeling seasick.  The sea was like scrambled Eggs, from all directions and very uncomfortable, 3 metre swells.  The wind picked up during the night and we decided to furl the Genoa to half and it jammed once again.  I didn’t like Dave going to the fore-deck all the time, and the sea was now really rough.

Tuesday morning same conditions, the boat was digging in its rail, we wanted to unfurl the Genoa, and it jammed again.  We then saw a snake on the guard rail, thought it was a sea snake, so Dave used the windlass handle to knock it off, it was only a “Cape Cobra”. He got the .22 rifle and fired a shot, missing, the sea conditions made it quite difficult to shoot accurately, so the 5th shot Dave put the barrel next to the snake, and killed it.  We said, “that’s a bad omen”, and we turned back to Cape Town, at that stage we had done 150 miles.  Thank goodness he wasn’t bitten.  It must have come in the sack with the new anchor chain, which we left on the foredeck for 2 days, and it must have gone down into the chain locker, luckily the snake didn’t go inside the boat.  We arrived back in Port Owen on Wednesday, midnight and went alongside the holding jetty till Friday.  Our main water tank was also full of brown sediment, churned up from the rough sea.  On Monday Dave tried to take the Genoa off, took about 1 hour before it came down.  He phoned Manex Marine, who fitted the furler, and someone came out to the boat 2 weeks later.  They found that they had  fitted the swivel the wrong way around.   Dave cleaned the tanks, fitted a compass light, and did a few other jobs on the boat.  For the following week we had North winds blowing every morning, & on Monday the 5th December we decided to leave, despite a North wind, so we motored out of the bay.

 The first 7 days, I was seasick, wanting to go overboard and die.    We thought sailing would be boring and decided not to fit an auto-pilot, rather hand steer the boat, BIG MISTAKE…..  The nights were the worst,   I would nod off and go off course etc.  We didn’t see the sun for 17 days, and  it was very cold.  We  had to run the engine for 2 hours in the  evening, for lights and the fridge, as the solar panels didn’t put enough back to the batteries.    By the 5th day we had force 10 winds and huge swells lasting for 2 days, then light winds and a very confused sea , and 2 days from  St Helena we had 40 knot winds, doing 8 knots and 10 knots surfing down the swells.  During the night, Dave was flung out of our bunk and connected with the chart table.

 Our crew “Sheena” was fantastic,   she found her sea legs in no time and used to go to the foredeck to do her business, and always the same spot.

015 Main Str St. Helena

005 St. Helena

I was so happy to see St. Helena Island, after sailing 2,250 miles,  we entered Jamestown harbour at 8.30 a.m. on the 23rd December  and the harbour authorities came on board and showed us where to anchor, and tied an aft line to a barge, so we were quite secure and close in.  There was a ferry service, as it is very difficult to land a dinghy here. After 20 days at sea we went ashore to the famous “Ann’s Place”  for lunch and to do our laundry and she invited us to come to her for Christmas Lunch.

Ann -Pink Top – Richard

We were the only yacht in the anchorage, so the Christmas lunch was a family affair, and we felt quite privileged to have been invited, and what a fantastic 4 course meal.   The following day we cleaned the boat and Dave had repairs to do.   He had to go up the mast and replace broken lazy jacks, the roller furler once again, 2 screws fell out the bracket below the drum, also the main sheet block broke due to a vicious gybe, and had to replace  fuel  filters.

 
 The Portuguese discovered St Helena Island in 1582, and Napoleon arrived there in 1815-1821.
We went to Ann’s Place a few times for lunch, Fish and Veg. very tasty and her Apple Crumble pie was delicious.    I climbed the 699 steps to the top of the hill overlooking Jamestown.  Ann’s youngest son, Oliver, used to swim to our boat everyday to visit Sheena, as dogs were not allowed ashore.

We hired a car for a day to tour part of the island; the high lying areas are very green and lush.  We spent 2 unforgettable weeks in St Helena and left on the 7th January 95 for Salvador.

017 Views

View To Anchorage

Views From Top of the Steps, Dignity tied stern to the Barge.




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